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DYNOTYME II !!!!!

Timing must have been retarded either due to break-in mode (which if I'm remembering correctly only adds extra fuel and oil) or some other correction factor such as exhaust temps too low (timing is retarded until the pipe reaches 1200 F) and in ethanol mode timing is reduced as well. This is among the many reasons why we just won't use a PCV anymore when tuning a Polaris. You simply will never have a fully dialed in tune given all the different maps the ECU is using at any given moment.
Couldn't agree with you more Neal

Pipe temps were near that on every pipe test to be fair

Was in non ethanol

But actual timing was less then desired timing this time.

That's why we're questioning if the ecu having timing reduced along with fuel/oil in break in mode on the new 17 models ??

I'll know soon as I have a bd coming from Joey with break in mode taken out for a 17
 
Couldn't agree with you more Neal

Pipe temps were near that on every pipe test to be fair

Was in non ethanol

But actual timing was less then desired timing this time.

That's why we're questioning if the ecu having timing reduced along with fuel/oil in break in mode on the new 17 models ??

I'll know soon as I have a bd coming from Joey with break in mode taken out for a 17

Cool, looking forward to seeing the results. Either timing is actually reduced in break-in mode (can't say we've tested back to back with a break-in/non-break-in mode sled since we always use a sled out of break-in mode for testing) or the only other case in which timing is reduced is when knock is detected. The ECU will pull 1 to 2 degrees of timing before the DET light flashes on the Polaris gauge, I've witnessed this on my own sled with the Bully Dog gauge mounted.
 
Get the pipe hot and you should be fine.

Ecu mapping can always be made better .

Joeys bd from bmp with just everything cleaned up is a great addition

Also, jaws is making heat shields for the axys pipe soon
When I spoke with Greg last August?, he said he was leaning towards that heat shield being a blanket. He was not sure though then.
 
Gregs making heat shields

You should be able to order in a couple weeks as far as I know
 
Just as a note, the Terra Alps pipe was altered before it was ran in this test. So it wasn't the original set up sent. It does make more power then stock thru the whole rpm range, as dynoed from 6500 and up where all the pipes we tested lost power thru the mid range until 7500 ish. More peaky pipes. Also with timing adding 2' to all the pipes the Terra Alps made the best gains.
Cheers,
 
This is all a true statement..I changed the pipe from how it was originally hand built. It had a stepped reducer that I over thank and removed before the pipe was ever tested. I can tell you this I ran my stock 800 SKS on the loader with my clutch kit and it ran 8250 with a hot pipe. Terra alps pipe with no reducer at all ran 8350 with s hot pipe and was about 1.5-2.0 tenths quicker in 1000 ft. This was with no fuel controller, just bolting it on, and running it. I'm still waiting on jim for dyno sheets on the 840 fitted with the Terra alps pipe. To compare all three pipes tested on my 840, stock, Jaws and Terra alps.
The stock pipe made great power to 8250, bottom and mid. Jaws pipe great from 8000-8500, did make more hp then stock, but lost some between 6500-7500. TerraAlps pipe was stronger then stock pipe up threw the pull. Once I have the sheets I can verify the info, right now I'm going of memory. TAR pipe was only tested with 42mm reducer. Before I received the pipe it was tested in house with the tapered reducer, I did not know this till after it was already removed on a phone conversation I had with Ted. So my fault..I'm working on having some pieces powder coated, so once there back it's back on the loader with the proper reducer for verification..
 
Doc, if your saying that the Tera alps pipe of yours had a reducer in it that you sent over for us to try. Yes, there was one in there .
I didn't remove it because I thought this is the best set up you gave us that was Dyno tested?
 
Has the SLP pipe been dropped from everybody's testing here? I was led to believe from last years Pipe Shoot Out that the SLP Pipe wasn't that great. Although from past years of actual Real World Trail Riding that the SLP was a Great Pipe for me. So I jumped the gun and ran out and hooked both of my new 2016 sleds with the Highly Rated SSI Pipe Mod. "With Power Commander PCV" My Pro-S 800 ran flawless with the pipe although I did notice power drop off on long hard pulls when the pipe became heat soaked. My SKS would DET around 7000rpm. So in hindsight I wasn't blown away with all the hype the SSI Pipe mod gave me?
This year I'm pulling my faithful, now dusty SLP Pipe off the shelf for my new Assault. Going back to what gave me good trail riding performance without ANY issues with Heat power loss or DET problems. Just curious why nobody is testing the SLP on the Dyno with the 2017's.
 
just installed my jaws pipe last night. For the guys that have run this pipe. Should I install the supplied spacer for the primary spring? Or is there another spring that I should simply just put in while I have the clutch apart? I have zero riding time on this sled as I just bought it, and plan on starting the season off with the stock gearing. I also have a set of Dalton QAP 3 (66-73.5g) that I could put in and start of empty if I wanted.
 
120 or 140 start 300 finish. Run the Daltons with the 1/4,1/4 in the tip and try some base weight, like the 1/4-3/4. At the base install the set screw so it hangs out the rear a touch. Not so much that when the weight fully shifts the set screw won't hit the movable sheeve ( same area you would mashine if you were using heel klickers) and try it . This will help squeeze the belt and help keep clutches cooler from less slippage. Keep rear alone for now if you want , work on that later..
 
120 or 140 start 300 finish. Run the Daltons with the 1/4,1/4 in the tip and try some base weight, like the 1/4-3/4. At the base install the set screw so it hangs out the rear a touch. Not so much that when the weight fully shifts the set screw won't hit the movable sheeve ( same area you would mashine if you were using heel klickers) and try it . This will help squeeze the belt and help keep clutches cooler from less slippage. Keep rear alone for now if you want , work on that later..


I have a white Team primary spring on the bench. 120-310. Too much on the finish? I can buy another spring if needed.
 
Has the SLP pipe been dropped from everybody's testing here? I was led to believe from last years Pipe Shoot Out that the SLP Pipe wasn't that great. Although from past years of actual Real World Trail Riding that the SLP was a Great Pipe for me. So I jumped the gun and ran out and hooked both of my new 2016 sleds with the Highly Rated SSI Pipe Mod. "With Power Commander PCV" My Pro-S 800 ran flawless with the pipe although I did notice power drop off on long hard pulls when the pipe became heat soaked. My SKS would DET around 7000rpm. So in hindsight I wasn't blown away with all the hype the SSI Pipe mod gave me?
This year I'm pulling my faithful, now dusty SLP Pipe off the shelf for my new Assault. Going back to what gave me good trail riding performance without ANY issues with Heat power loss or DET problems. Just curious why nobody is testing the SLP on the Dyno with the 2017's.
We have tested the slp pipe on the axys with great results. the slp adds 8-10 hp with no programmer. awesome set up. can't go wrong with the slp. for more info contact me on fb Caputos performance .
 
So was at Dyno today

Shim, pistons, 12:1 head with by pass , Trail ported cylinder,machined valves,fuel controller, and jaws pipe

15% more power overall or 20- 22 more hp then stock , and 11 -13 more torque

It's still not fully out of ecu break in mode so timing is still back a little, ( just get pipe hot!)

All in all , I'm happy
I have a strong motor with a safe afr (12.5:1 to 12.7:1 up top rpm )
So, that being said , I can hammer on it and not worry about it. Just gas and go and have big gains

Div20
 


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