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SSI pipe doesn't work

Brock said:
FYI, I posted that over a year ago. Where do u you think he got it from???
Me and Bruce figured this out on dyno in January 2015.
Look in here and you'll find it about base
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I've been thinking that for a long time.

The poster on the other website is also using the Dynojet software to set TPS I believe. I've compared my Dynojet software to the Digital wrench software and the numbers aren't the same. If I used the DJ software to check full throttle I would get lots of high TPS readings. Put it on the DW and it's well within the wide open spec. Not sure what anybody else has seen but that's how it plays out on my PC. I question lots of stuff the guy on the other website says.

(Yes some sleds are out of spec on DW too.)

Coryatver,

It's my opinion that the stinger outlet on the SSI pipemod is on the tight side. It seems your sled is having more problems than most. I would recommend looking up the stinger outlet (camera) and checking to make sure there isn't a bend in the internal stinger, some welding slag and/or etc.

Also I would consider keeping the PCV with timing, it's a pretty good piece of equipment.
 
Just for reference, the SSI stinger is made of 3 pieces (straight then a bend followed by a shorter straight piece).
 
AFM said:
I've compared my Dynojet software to the Digital wrench software and the numbers aren't the same. If I used the DJ software to check full throttle I would get lots of high TPS readings. Put it on the DW and it's well within the wide open spec. Not sure what anybody else has seen but that's how it plays out on my PC
Click to expand...

Yes I am also having that issue my pcv. full throttle tps is correct on digital wrench but pcv is high when I sync it. So how do you set the calibration in the PCV? That's one of the reason I wanted to get rid of it I don't think the maps are aligning correctly? And the temp setting does not read right on pcv which isn't a big deal just shows it is not working well with the sled
 
Yes, there is a welded bend inside the pipe. (Which I wonder how much more back pressure that creates compared to having a rounded bend. The BMP is slightly wider, shorter and doesn't have the bend.) What I was meaning to check and see if there is a dent (in the tubing), weld bead, weld slag and or etc. inside the internal stinger outlet that could be causing additional resistance.

I was looking at modding stock pipes earlier this winter.
 
The end of the pipe itself turns down towards the silencer. I believe the are trying to get the stinger to line better up with the main body of the pipe. Look up from the end of the pipe and double check one of these pieces is not broke off inside the pipe.
 
Idk but I had the ssi pipe mod on my rush and it det all the time. Took it right off. Have had the bikeman pipe on my switchback for 1500 miles now and not once have I thrown a det code. I have a ceramic coated ssi pipe mod for sale cuz I'm buying another bikeman pipe for my Rush now.
 
Minus40 said:
Coryatver,
A friendly post...
I suspect you have learned that if your going to mod stuff you have to be prepared to learn and figure problems out or pay someone to do it for you. You seem like a good guy, just frustrated.
Here is a couple quick observations, people have given you advice and you have not followed through. I see now your just assuming your base idle tps is correct, why not actually check it like recommended to you? As far as the DW and PCV tps matching, I believe that has been covered before by myself and others.
This pipe mod may or may not work for you but cover all the bases first. I hope you get if figured out
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In the red, this is true
In the yellow, true again
In the blue, true again

You have made some valid points minus40 and everything you mentioned needs to be looked at.

to the op:
The frustration and finger pointing doesn't help. People are trying to help. Saying that you've done everything when people are just trying to help,well, the internet forums are full of this . It's a machine and can be fixed. The afr and bsfc's are off with this pipe mod and needs to be addressed properly to work .
 
proS800 said:
Idk but I had the ssi pipe mod on my rush and it det all the time. Took it right off. Have had the bikeman pipe on my switchback for 1500 miles now and not once have I thrown a det code. I have a ceramic coated ssi pipe mod for sale cuz I'm buying another bikeman pipe for my Rush now.
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Tom, how does this help??
So it doesn't work you just give up and throw it away??
The problem with society today is: that if it don't work instantly,throw it,get mad,and tell everyone on the internet.............how does that solve anything??
 
It's not that I don't want to try to make it work it's just personally I don't like it. I'm not saying it didn't make power because it did. Made good power. It's just personally want to use the same pipe that I've been messing with for 1500 miles. I have I good setup so why not duplicate it on my second axys sled. I prly wont sell the pipe just keep it for days I wanna race and keep it a secret. I hope people figure it out and get thier sleds working. It's no dis on the pipe mod. I just know my setup is working well for me.
 
Yes I contacted SSI. He sent me a new map that is very rich. I appreciate all the help some great advice and Ideas here. And yes I am not the only one with this issue lots of people on other forums and Facebook are saying they are having DET issues also. Actually pretty much everyone I have talked to has the same issue with the SSI pipe mod. And I have been trying to figure this out all winter I have tried many different maps, have went through my whole sled, multiple trips to dealer. As for paying for someone to help I have spend over a grand at SSI, Bought Dynotech subscription, paid to hook up Digital wrench at dealer, Sleepless nights researching trying to figure out whats going on. I am new to tuning these things for sure and have learned a lot from everyone here. To tell you the truth I guess I didn't know what I was getting into. The SSI pipe wasn't even supposed to need a fuel controller. I figured install it and would be good to go. Put it with all the other lessens learned I guess and move on.
 
This can be corrected, you will need a SSI pipe mod and a my16, with PCV , and an AFR gauge with a bung in the SSI pipe. Know the hard part, a way to load the track, best way is with a track loader to simulate different load and speeds. If this is not available , possibly s track Dyno might work, last resort is to mount the sled in a crick against the water current. Mother nature would also need to cooperate here. This way the motor would be loaded by the clutches and track to simulate riding down the trail. Know moniter AFR readings with laptop hooked to PCV and make fuel adjustments as needed to PCV map. I know it sounds crude but it would work, this way in the lower throttle angles you can load the sled and make fuel adjustments as needed, trying to duplicate a trail scenario .
 
I have been fighting this with guys sleds too. The last ride out, I almost had no det with maps I was changing. There's no snow ,so I can't test.
 
I have a Pro-S that has run an estimated 600 miles without any issues on this set up. While I also have an SKS that pushed 4 DET's in a 150 mile ride. My DET's were in the Mid RPM. Estimating 6500-7000rpm? No problems at all in the 8400 range. While adding weight to the clutches she pulled 8500-8600 a few times without issue. I've since dialed the RPM down. I ran out of snow to try to work out the issue.
 
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JMAXDOX said:
I have a Pro-S that has run an estimated 600 miles without any issues on this set up. While I also have an SKS that pushed 4 DET's in a 150 mile ride. My DET's were in the Mid RPM. Estimating 6500-7000rpm? No problems at all in the 8400 range. While adding weight to the clutches she pulled 8500-8600 a few times without issue. I've since dialed the RPM down. I ran out of snow to try to work out the issue.
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But do you have the Pipe Mod on your sleds?
 
coryatver said:
Yes I contacted SSI. He sent me a new map that is very rich. I appreciate all the help some great advice and Ideas here. And yes I am not the only one with this issue lots of people on other forums and Facebook are saying they are having DET issues also. Actually pretty much everyone I have talked to has the same issue with the SSI pipe mod. And I have been trying to figure this out all winter I have tried many different maps, have went through my whole sled, multiple trips to dealer. As for paying for someone to help I have spend over a grand at SSI, Bought Dynotech subscription, paid to hook up Digital wrench at dealer, Sleepless nights researching trying to figure out whats going on. I am new to tuning these things for sure and have learned a lot from everyone here. To tell you the truth I guess I didn't know what I was getting into. The SSI pipe wasn't even supposed to need a fuel controller. I figured install it and would be good to go. Put it with all the other lessens learned I guess and move on.
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I ran mine without the PCV first and it made killer power with no det. Then I tried using my PCV with the map that was made at Dynotech and it didn't work that well. However I will admit that when it comes to dialing in the PCV with a better map that's where I struggle as I'm not very good at figuring that part out so I went back to just the pipe and it works quite well for me without a PCV.
 
I tried mine without pcv and it det every time I went full throttle.
This is my solution to my pipe mod issues got a Bikeman pipe


image.jpeg
 
I wanted to take a minute to express my own feelings for where some of this SSI PIPE MOD seems to be leading us here on this site. My Hat Tip's to the DR. NOTADOO and BROCK. They both are very knowledgeable guys that are willing to help and that is very admirable to me. Thank You. Some of the comments that recently flew I guess should seriously be thought about. I don't completely agree with all of these opinions but it is an eye opener. For those of you like myself that aren't seriously knowledgeable tuners you might want to think twice before jumping on the SSI Pipe Mod.

I'm 46 years old and I've been riding all my life. Stock 800's did the trick for me up until recently (Two years Ago) I started getting the itch to play with light modifications to my sleds. It is fun and a bit addicting!! My first mod was an SLP stage 2 set up. Worked great, never had issues and I was pretty impressed with what it delivered. I've swapped stock shock springs for aftermarkets which helped my ride immensely. I installed a Gabes Clutch Kit and was totally happy with the results. I've changed Gearing, widened ski stance and tried different tracks. I know to the average experienced tuner these little steps of Modding I've done are probably boring and weak. Yet, I've enjoyed learning more about my sled and learning how they work and why they respond better with what I've played with. Maybe I've just been a lucky guy but all of these Mod's I've played with ALL worked as advertised and gave me what I expected without complications.

So, some people assume that when we Mod something we should expect that we will have problems to figure out. I guess this is where my opinion begins to differ. Like I said, all of my other Mod's worked as expected and didn't bring on extra homework and headaches. I think some of us expect that when we buy an advertised Mod we believe what we read and expect it will work as advertised. I myself awaited the Pipe Shoot Out results and couldn't wait to read the results. Much to my disappointment, my SLP Pipe didn't fair as well as I hoped it would. The SSI Pipe Mod was basically given 5 stars and boasted as hugely being the best bang for your buck. What caught my eye and was hugely appealing to me was the fact that it was my stock pipe and dealers wouldn't even know it was a Mod. Even though I was extremely happy with my SLP Pipe Set this seemed like a Slam Dunk.
5 more HP and looks completely stock. I jumped on it and sent in both of my stock pipes. Much like we are learning now, one pipe performed flawlessly while the other threw 4 DET's in one 150 mile ride. I'm not Mad or throwing a Rant dissing the SSI Pipe Mod. It clearly pulls good power but one pipe is going to require some extra tuning "Learning & Work" on my part. Of course I wasn't expecting that I'd have issues when I bought it. Apparently some people feel this should be expected? That is a surprise to me. I guess there is some fact to what these guys are saying. So for those of you that aren't hardcore tuners looking for a challenge "Like Me" you might want to think about this one before pulling the trigger??

As part of my learning curve, I completely plan to try to get my 2nd Pipe Mod to work correctly without issue next year when I get enough snow to run it again and start working with the PCV. To be totally honest I was definitely hoping for Plug & Play Performance. I'm sure tuning with the PCV is likely simple. I just have to get it through my head that I need to put some time in learning how this all works. Hopefully this Pipe is easily tuned into a workable pipe. If it turns out to be a Headache like Cory's I'll simply pull the SLP back off the shelf. Glad I didn't sell them yet!

((QUESTION)) As I start adding Fuel through the PCV to fix the DET issue doesn't that make my engine start losing some of that 5 HP that was gained over the other Pipes in the Shoot Out.
((QUESTION)) What's the deal with the stinger -vs- open flow pipe. Is it a fact that the stinger runs hotter and drops HP on long pulls as she gets Hot? Could be just me but I almost think I can feel this happening on the good working Pipe?
 
Pretty much my thoughts also. Yes the pipe builds up heat from extra back pressure which makes power but causes it to det if it gets to hot. I don't know if pcv is the answe multiple people have told me more fuel makes it worse.
 
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