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Wont start without unplugging capacitor

Popo700xc

New Member
Messages
5
Age
56
Location
Michigan
Country
USA
Years Snowmobiling
30
Snowmobile
2012 Rush 600
Hello, I have a 2012 Rush 600, ran great, stopped for lunch and came back out to find a no start issue. Hauled it back, messing around found if I unplugged the capacitor above clutch it starts, plug it back in and runs great till the next stop. Then have to unplug to get started again. Also reverse does not work now also, acts like it but quits when idles down. Compression is 124psi on both sides, checked the TPS settings .700 idle backed off, .939 setting the idle. Backed off the throttle cable some, tried new (used) capacitor and voltage regulator-no help. Cleaned the valves. No CEL or codes showing. ANY HELP PLEASE!!!!
 
Thats odd, didnt think it would even start without the capacitor. Did you do the charge decay test on both the capacitors to make sure they are both good?
 
Not sure about that test so probably no I didnt. I cant find the second capacitor that is listed in the parts diagram, this is what looks to be a smaller capacitor just in the harness. Is there a capacitor in the hood harness? I will search the charge decay test and see what I get. thanks
 
1642102239000.png
 
Should it drain completely or hold some charge? Any idea where the other capacitor is located? Thanks for your help @850Switchback
 
It doesn't matter how much it drains, the rate it drains at is the important part. Should be pretty slow. If its quick or doesnt charge at all then its no good.
The wiring diag shows the second one on the sled somewhere in the speedo loop so its not relevant to the problems you have.
By both I meant the 2 capacitors, original and used one, that you have.
Polaris doesnt describe the system operation in the service manuals hardly at all, its all on the dealers software, but it would make sense that this cap is to keep the fuel pump alive when going into reverse.
 
It doesn't matter how much it drains, the rate it drains at is the important part. Should be pretty slow. If its quick or doesnt charge at all then its no good.
The wiring diag shows the second one on the sled somewhere in the speedo loop so its not relevant to the problems you have.
By both I meant the 2 capacitors, original and used one, that you have.
Polaris doesnt describe the system operation in the service manuals hardly at all, its all on the dealers software, but it would make sense that this cap is to keep the fuel pump alive when going into reverse.
I tested the original, dropped maybe a .01 volt every 2 to 3 seconds so sounds ok??
I also tested the voltage going to the capacitor at idle had about 6 volts. Do you know what the voltage going to the capacitor should be?
Have not replaced the voltage regulator up front by the coils.
Thanks
 
That drop rate sounds good, so the capacitor isn't the problem. The 6v input however is no good, should be 12-14v. There is a open plug near the primary clutch marked "DC power", check for 12-14v at that plug. You might have to rev the motor off idle when checking to wake up the stator output.
Dont worry about the other regulator, thats the AC power circuit (lights/handwarmers). The one in the clutch cover is the DC side.
 
That drop rate sounds good, so the capacitor isn't the problem. The 6v input however is no good, should be 12-14v. There is a open plug near the primary clutch marked "DC power", check for 12-14v at that plug. You might have to rev the motor off idle when checking to wake up the stator output.
Dont worry about the other regulator, thats the AC power circuit (lights/handwarmers). The one in the clutch cover is the DC side.
Checked that plug and have 14.4 volts. Drove today for an hour no issues after starting it.
Everything works as it should.
Really getting me stumped.
 
Yeah I'm out of ideas too other than chase out the capacitor wiring and see why its only getting 6v, The diagram below should help. Maybe something happened at one of the splices.
1642305914911.png
 
This forum is now a year old but I had the identical problem on my sled that Popo700xc was having and I was able to fix it.
My sled is a 2013 Polaris Pro RMK 800. It died putting it into reverse and wouldn't start again. I was messing around with it and found it will start with the capacitor unplugged. I did test Ohms on the stator and it seemed normal. adjusted the TPS too. but after this it was starting normally with the capacitor plugged in. I thought the problem was fixed from adjusting the TPS but it wasn't long into the ride a few days later the same issue came back. I got stuck, shut it off, then it wouldn't start. it would still start with the capacitor unplugged but when the sled would be shut off it wouldn't start without it unplugged. Then it started throwing a engine code on the way home as well as flashing a low voltage icon on the screen. This is the code. (520215). later we learned the code was misleading. it indicated a short or open circuit to the EV solenoid. after testing this and that around the EV solenoid we decided to test the stator again. it's supposed to be 0.77 Ohms testing from the orange wire to the other orange wire. We found it now has an open loop on that faze. I pulled the stator and cut open the wire casing where the orange wires start into the windings and I found the the coil winding wire and one of the orange wires had arced apart resulting the open loop on the tester. I spliced the two wires back together and it now Ohms tests normal. we installed it back onto the sled and the problem is now fixed. the reason it was still running even with an open loop was because the electrical current was jumping across between the broken wire enough that it would still run. the reason it would still start with the capacitor unplugged was because it was drawing down the current and making the spark even weaker to the point of not firing. the reason why it tested good the first time I tested it was because the wires had not yet completely burnt through yet. but it was still burnt enough that it was starting to mess with the voltage. the reason why the wires were arcing through was because the connections are crimp connections and through all the heating and cooling the connection became lose and resulted in arcing. I hope this is some information that can help somebody. and here's some pages from the service manual that might help.

 

Attachments

  • stator testing.pdf
    1.6 MB · Views: 162
  • trouble codes#2.pdf
    1.8 MB · Views: 162
Thats odd, the stator ohms on that circuit should've been going thru the roof when you first tested it if the connection was going bad.
 
That's what I would have thought too. maybe I didn't test it right the first time or maybe the tester was just a cheap one that wasn't sufficient for the job. we're still stumped it even ran.
 
I'm having the same exact issue on my 2015 pro rmk 800. I have replaced the stator which failed due to rubbing wires. The machine starts up great with the capacitor removed. I will plug the capacitor in while running the machine to keep the low voltage codes from coming in although the reverse still doesn't work with and without the capacitor. When plugging a 12v battery into the ecm port the reverse and starting works perfectly. I have even tried a different regulator/rectifier and capacitor with no change. Any help would be great.
 
I'm having the same exact issue on my 2015 pro rmk 800. I have replaced the stator which failed due to rubbing wires. The machine starts up great with the capacitor removed. I will plug the capacitor in while running the machine to keep the low voltage codes from coming in although the reverse still doesn't work with and without the capacitor. When plugging a 12v battery into the ecm port the reverse and starting works perfectly. I have even tried a different regulator/rectifier and capacitor with no change. Any help would be great.
I also forgot to mention I have replaced the reeds, did a top end, new spark plugs, good spark, good compression and everything is great except starting and reverse.
I'm having the same exact issue on my 2015 pro rmk 800. I have replaced the stator which failed due to rubbing wires. The machine starts up great with the capacitor removed. I will plug the capacitor in while running the machine to keep the low voltage codes from coming in although the reverse still doesn't work with and without the capacitor. When plugging a 12v battery into the ecm port the reverse and starting works perfectly. I have even tried a different regulator/rectifier and capacitor with no change. Any help would be great.
 
did you ohms test the new stator you put in? I have leaned to not trust cheaper after market electrical parts and only trust oem parts for reasons like that. If putting power to the the ECU power plug fixes the issues then I would guarantee there is something messed up with the power between the ECU and the stator. could be a short somewhere in the wiring drawing voltage that's somewhere associated with the DC system coil (X) from the stator. below I have the stator test chart that is for your ride. also could possibly be a bad ground. I will have to think about it more today wile I'm at work. on my sled it was the stator but I would imagine there could be several thing that could cause this issue
 

Attachments

  • 2 stator testing.pdf
    1.5 MB · Views: 135
did you ohms test the new stator you put in? I have leaned to not trust cheaper after market electrical parts and only trust oem parts for reasons like that. If putting power to the the ECU power plug fixes the issues then I would guarantee there is something messed up with the power between the ECU and the stator. could be a short somewhere in the wiring drawing voltage that's somewhere associated with the DC system coil (X) from the stator. below I have the stator test chart that is for your ride. also could possibly be a bad ground. I will have to think about it more today wile I'm at work. on my sled it was the stator but I would imagine there could be several thing that could cause this issue
I did do an ohm test initially with no issues. It is a SP1 stator and I haven't had any issues with any of their products in the past. I'll run another test today to see if there is an issue since I have one ride on it. When I replaced the stator the magneto did show some wear from debris being stuck to the magnet and coming in contact with the stator, not sure if that would have a issue. All magnets still had polarity when testing and I didn't see much info in the service manual concerning it.
 
you could try testing the capacitor, that going bad can cause some issues.
was the sled having this issue before replacing the stator and before you rebuilt the engine?
is there an engine light randomly coming on wile riding it?
 

Attachments

  • capacitor test.pdf
    1.5 MB · Views: 162
This forum is now a year old but I had the identical problem on my sled that Popo700xc was having and I was able to fix it.
My sled is a 2013 Polaris Pro RMK 800. It died putting it into reverse and wouldn't start again. I was messing around with it and found it will start with the capacitor unplugged. I did test Ohms on the stator and it seemed normal. adjusted the TPS too. but after this it was starting normally with the capacitor plugged in. I thought the problem was fixed from adjusting the TPS but it wasn't long into the ride a few days later the same issue came back. I got stuck, shut it off, then it wouldn't start. it would still start with the capacitor unplugged but when the sled would be shut off it wouldn't start without it unplugged. Then it started throwing a engine code on the way home as well as flashing a low voltage icon on the screen. This is the code. (520215). later we learned the code was misleading. it indicated a short or open circuit to the EV solenoid. after testing this and that around the EV solenoid we decided to test the stator again. it's supposed to be 0.77 Ohms testing from the orange wire to the other orange wire. We found it now has an open loop on that faze. I pulled the stator and cut open the wire casing where the orange wires start into the windings and I found the the coil winding wire and one of the orange wires had arced apart resulting the open loop on the tester. I spliced the two wires back together and it now Ohms tests normal. we installed it back onto the sled and the problem is now fixed. the reason it was still running even with an open loop was because the electrical current was jumping across between the broken wire enough that it would still run. the reason it would still start with the capacitor unplugged was because it was drawing down the current and making the spark even weaker to the point of not firing. the reason why it tested good the first time I tested it was because the wires had not yet completely burnt through yet. but it was still burnt enough that it was starting to mess with the voltage. the reason why the wires were arcing through was because the connections are crimp connections and through all the heating and cooling the connection became lose and resulted in arcing. I hope this is some information that can help somebody. and here's some pages from the service manual that might help.

I have a 2016 Polaris 600 rmk, I have the same problem, only start with Capacitor Unplugged. Runs great with out Cap but no reversed.

What I have done so Far

1. New Stator
2. New VR
3. New Relay (Only one in this sled)
3. New Flywheel ( Why? Just in Case )
4. Check all stator Ohms, They all check ok
5. Check Orange (X) wire to from stator to ECM pin 21 and 26. ok
6. 6 volts to Capacitor (did charged Cap and check how slow in drain ( 1 min 12 vdc to 5vdc) I know I should get 14.6 VDC
7. 12VAC from Stator yellow (Z) Wires to VR, I have to idea what the voltage should be, the manual doesn't say
8. Brown (Y) to chassis ground ok
9. Charged Battery but she is not the best but will crank motor

I had some luck by using the pull cord with cap on and she would start but that a Russian roulette, don't work now, need to unplugged
cap to start.

Things I notice
- with cap off, a battery will flash on gauge only when accelerate
- with cap on the sled will have a small hesitation when punching the throttle, but not all the time

I'm running out of options, I know I'm missing something but what ?
If anyone of you here can give me something to check or something that I have missed I would greatly appreciated your help

Thank you

A Canadian guy


PS:
the reason why the wires were arcing through was because the connections are crimp connections

Where was this of the stator ?????
 
You have to concentrate on #6 on that list and fix the 6 volts, the capactior needs 12v from the sled in order to charge correctly. Reverse wont work without the capacitor since thats what holds the charge to keep everything alive while the motor is powering down.
Also the drain of the capacitor itself sounds fast, its possible its bad.
 


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