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Wont start without unplugging capacitor

ProTurbo said:
First thank you for the information above

I was going to tell you the dc amp draw from the pump but my meter has a blown fuse. I soon I get a new fuse for the fluke meter I will let you know.
Your problem is the red wire to the relay coming from the VR, if no 14.6 vdcs from VR you will not have pump or gauges, the red wire feed the relay in turn feed the red/white to your console, there is also a red/ dark blue to the pin 33 (ecu). please note the red wire feeds the pump directly no thru the relay. check voltage from the VR . Also check from the 6 pin not the 3 pin from VR. The 3 pin is the to charge to battery if you do have a electric start. If you need the diagram let me know. One more thing, if you dont have proper voltage coming from the VR, you CAP will not charge to 14..6vdc and will not keep voltage up to get the reverse going while your engine goes dead to reverse .
Also see quantum for fuel pump......$80 your price
Hope this help

Pro

welcome to my nightmare
Click to expand...

ProTurbo
- I think I understand what your laying out for connections, my connections are close to what you called out. I have the wiring diagram blown up to 4x 11x17 sheets of paper, printed off and taking up with kitchen table, the image is so large I can not attach it to this forum, otherwise I would.
-Tonight I unplugged the capacitor, unplugged the 6 pin plug to the voltage regulator and powered the ECM plug with a 12v battery. Sled fires right up and runs on the old (plastic volcano) ECU and most importantly the ECU does not get hot or smoke!
-Thinking about this more... I'm thinking I should just leave a probe on a ground wire and check every wire that should be "HOT" to the ground and see if I have a short. I checked every wire for continuity Sunday, took 4 hours, this was going point to point which would not highlight a "short".

ProTurbo- Did you get your sled fixed with replacement harness?

850 Switchback
-The sled has not been in for the recall. Pump still works fine on battery power (see details above). The pickup sock and inline fuel filter have both been changed within 1000 miles, also had the pump out of the tank and looked at the pickup sock and bottom of the tank, white and clean. Lastly, I have experienced the pump whine before due to bad gas at a station and it in turn throwing a DET code due to a plugged fuel sock, so I am familiar.

Thank you for the help!
 
Skatike27 said:
ProTurbo
- I think I understand what your laying out for connections, my connections are close to what you called out. I have the wiring diagram blown up to 4x 11x17 sheets of paper, printed off and taking up with kitchen table, the image is so large I can not attach it to this forum, otherwise I would.
-Tonight I unplugged the capacitor, unplugged the 6 pin plug to the voltage regulator and powered the ECM plug with a 12v battery. Sled fires right up and runs on the old (plastic volcano) ECU and most importantly the ECU does not get hot or smoke!
-Thinking about this more... I'm thinking I should just leave a probe on a ground wire and check every wire that should be "HOT" to the ground and see if I have a short. I checked every wire for continuity Sunday, took 4 hours, this was going point to point which would not highlight a "short".

ProTurbo- Did you get your sled fixed with replacement harness?
Click to expand...
No I didn't get a hardness yet, Looking to get a new fuel pump, but I doubt if it will fix my problem since I'm cannot getting 14.6 vdc out of the Red wire off the VR even when I have the whole hardness not plugged into the RED wire. Anyone had a match I can borrow
 
Found this article today... really hoping I don't have two fried ecus...

r.tapatalk.com

2014 polaris pro 800 voltage issues? Bad ecu?

Im looking for some advice on which route to take next. My sled had stopped running while out ridding and wouldnt restart wasn't getting fuel i got it home after testing fuel pump and changing filter with no change found a yellow wire from the voltage regulator rubbed through spliced that and it...
r.tapatalk.com r.tapatalk.com
 
Thank you for sharing information, I hope I don't have that problem also.
 
Went to a dealer today as I am at my witts end, explained to them everything I have been through troubleshooting. After speaking with the service manager and a senior tech, they declined to take my sled. They were being nice, stating that based on what I have tried, they would do one of the following...
-unplug the dash and try starting
-buy a new harness

Just thought I would share
 
So just a thought based on that, try unplugging just the ignition switch and run the machine. See if the voltage improves.
They've been known to corrode internally and cause weird issues for others
 
Did just that tonight, no luck.

Just cut all the tape and loom off my harness, didnt find anything but could not believe how terribly twisted the wires were when they were taped would not doubt if there was a bad wire in the mess. Hooked up the harness to the sled in the dark, no electrical shorts or jumps that I could see. Hooked up spare ECU finally, sled ran for 2 minutes, voltage looked good at DC and ECM plug. Then the sled started to ramp up in idle and before I could kill it, the ECU popped and let the smoke out of it violently.

I'm defeated, ready to part it out.
 
That sucks and very confusing since the ECU is powered directly off its separate isolated circuit on the stator, and you already changed a stator.
 
Skatike27 said:
Went to a dealer today as I am at my witts end, explained to them everything I have been through troubleshooting. After speaking with the service manager and a senior tech, they declined to take my sled. They were being nice, stating that based on what I have tried, they would do one of the following...
-unplug the dash and try starting
-buy a new harness

Just thought I would share
Click to expand...
Ya Bummer man. looking for one also. thank you
 
850Switchback said:
That sucks and very confusing since the ECU is powered directly off its separate isolated circuit on the stator, and you already changed a stator.
Click to expand...
no kidding , lol Sounds good, Im up for anything right now. will be home tomorrow. yes we did swap the stator and flywheel. same result
Thx man
 
850Switchback said:
So just a thought based on that, try unplugging just the ignition switch and run the machine. See if the voltage improves.
They've been known to corrode internally and cause weird issues for others
Click to expand...
will let you know for sure thank you, so she will run without plugged in. ok
 
ProTurbo said:
will let you know for sure thank you, so she will run without plugged in. ok
Click to expand...
off the cap 6 VDC with it
850Switchback said:
So just a thought based on that, try unplugging just the ignition switch and run the machine. See if the voltage improves.
They've been known to corrode internally and cause weird issues for others
Click to expand...
sorry to say, same thing, 6 VDC off the cap. waiting for a new harness
 
SOLVE

Replace the wiring harness and Voila.

Started with cap on and has reverse

Thank you everyone who help out, much appreciated....
 
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