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Your best bet is to try and find a used service manual on EBAY or Amazon. I don't have anything of that vintage. Also check the voltage regulator, the lights acting up could be it going out.

I'd also consider doing the upper chaincase bearing at this point too, who knows how much it was stressed with the shaft being able to walk around on this end.

Looks like you caught that just in time before it really started to do some damage. You can pull the seals on the OEM bearings still, I did mine with no issues. Word on the street is they redesigned this bearing/carrier for '23, not sure what changed or how easy its going to retrofit though as...

For the newer stuff I wouldn't be too concerned, they switched to long life OAT antifreeze like the auto mfgs are using back in 2015. Theres plenty of aluminum in autos these days so the additives should be compatable. Anything much older than that and I'd be concerned with the rubber materials...

Yes

My concern would be the consistent availability of good fuel, we've all had to fill at some sketchy places in the past. Not really an issue for the mountain crowd as they usually only burn what they have in the tank daily or are carrying onboard.

Looks like part of a bearing race, jackshaft bearing on its way out?

The 2 I know of are Al's in Vermont and Hudons in New York. Hope that helps

Updated rubber compound I believe. Go by what the parts lookup says on Polaris website, I wouldn't trust the owners manual. Rolling changes sometimes get missed when those are printed.

If you need to pressure check components MityVac has a handpump setup that can pressurize

There were guys making conversion harnesses to plug those into automotive OBD2 code readers, they apparently use similar codes to generic OBD2. You'd have to do some searching to see what works, I also remember reading about boost leaks being pretty common on those, something about a hose barb/...

I'm almost positive all the EFI 600s were the same crank taper so you should be all set. Check the parts lookups, I think they use the same crank. They ran that bottom end forever.

Was it stored for a while? like more than one season? Sounds like either rust in the bottom end took out a bearing or dirty carburetor leaned out one cylinder. Its also possible one of the oil fittings that feeds the motor is plugged too. Wont know for sure until you get it apart.

They don't show it in the parts diagram, just call it out as part of the assembly for #9 https://snowmobiles.polaris.com/en-us/assembly/?modelId=S22TKV8RS&assemblyId=441335

DK shows 2 kits in stock, looks like thats the option. Polaris wants $35 each for those fuel needles, if they have them. So for a few bucks more you are getting all the rest of those parts.

Well thats a flaw, looks like you have 2 choices since they don't list a kit specifically for your machine, you can take your chances with this kit for a 98 since most of the main carb parts are the same. Some of the jets are probably slightly different, you would have to find the jetting charts...

Also hunt down a service manual, you can usually find them used on EBAY. They show the routing of the lines, especially that ACCS valve on the airbox which is only on the RMK sleds.

I would get a rebuild kit for them, Dennis Kirk has the kits available. Keihin uses a rubber tipped fuel needle instead of a separate needle and seat to control fuel into the bowl. Yours are likely shot.

I'm guessing the sticker over the VIN with the rest of the info is gone? The 10th digit in the VIN being X says its a 99 And they are vents.... so no, fuel should not be shooting out of them. Sounds like the bowl floats are not set right or the fuel needle attached to it is shot so you are just...

Definitely, even shows on the parts diagram now.