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Bikeman stage 3 was happy until???

Mike@BMP said:
Do you have a bully dog? We'd be more than happy to send you a zero tune for testing.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike. I do have a bd that joey sent me and a few tunes. Just haven't tried them on dyno yet .
 
Brock said:
Check your clutches for any worn parts

Align properly, most times you only need about 0.120" washer behind secondary and let it float out 0.120"

Get the slp engine strap

Adjust suspension so it sags 5+ inches and very back of tunnel

Let track sag 1/2" after warming it up on stand . Check chain tension. Move secondary while parking brake on .should move back and forth a 1/4"

Belt to sheave 0.010-0.015"

1.73 ratio

I'd get adjustable weights . Best bang for your dollar . I like Dalton profile cause it's close to 10 series . Try around 68 gram's, a 120/310.

Secondary, a 50/44 or 48/44 full progressive with a 140/220

I'd try that
Click to expand...
On these Dalton weights, I got the QAP-3 set. The base weight is 66 gr. I could go three different ways to get to around 68 gr's.
1- put in the 2.5 gr set screw for 68.5 gr.
2- put in the 1.9 gr set screw for 67.9 gr.
3- put in the .7 gr set screw and the 1.3 gr set screw for 68 gr.

For putting these set screws in, do I screw them all the way into the tip of the weight or leave them as close to the heal as possible?
If I go with the two set screws, should I put one all the way into the tip and leave one in the heal or do they need to be next to each other?
 
For your third set up on Dalton weights.
Screw the .7 gram to the tip and snug.
And the 1.3 gram ,screw in so top is sticking out a bit but bottom is hitting threads if you know what I mean.
Maybe Mr.Indy could post a pick of his Dalton's I set up?
 
I'd like to see that also. If possible.
 
so far with testing last weekend with my set up in trail riding condition loose snow odd hard packed fields at 1600 feet i ended up 2.5 on the heel two treads showing
result was 8300 to 8350 with a fairly big cam i put the 66-61f back in my tied and 8400 to 8450 but only made a few hits going to verify this weekend in all type of riding conditions and going to try
0.7 on the tip and 1.9 or 1.3 on the heel to see what happens and thanks Brock for the advise on the adjustable weight great tuning kit my buddies are having smoke breaks and
i can make a weigh change in half a smoke break and clean hands LOL i tried 3.1 heel and tip 0.7 to heavy 2.5 heel and tip 0.7 to heavy just 3.1 in the heel to heavy now that i feel im close in the weight area 68 area going to mess around with weight location and Brock super thanks for the primary help this year smoothest sled i ever had with a twin Brock and Dr super thanks for the great support and the help you guys supply for every one if i have some down time i will pull a Dalton adjustable weight out and try to put some pics up
 
Brock said:
Check your clutches for any worn parts

Align properly, most times you only need about 0.120" washer behind secondary and let it float out 0.120"

Get the slp engine strap

Adjust suspension so it sags 5+ inches and very back of tunnel

Let track sag 1/2" after warming it up on stand . Check chain tension. Move secondary while parking brake on .should move back and forth a 1/4"

Belt to sheave 0.010-0.015"

1.73 ratio

I'd get adjustable weights . Best bang for your dollar . I like Dalton profile cause it's close to 10 series . Try around 68 gram's, a 120/310.

Secondary, a 50/44 or 48/44 full progressive with a 140/220

I'd try that
Click to expand...
I finally got everything, but the slp engine strap, installed and set up the way you recommended. The problem that I'm having is I can only get 7800 - 7850 rpm's.

I set the belt to sheave with a brand new belt. I did not go back to the broke in belt before testing.

After reading the proper way to change a helix, I'm not 100% sure if I'm using the 50/44 or the 52/46 ramps on the helix. I will check that and make sure I'm in the 50/44.

I will change back to the broke in belt, check that I'm using the 50/44 ramps and mark the clutches to see where the belt is running. Anything else I should check?
 
6564_1484921484624.jpeg
6568_1484921424890.jpeg

Dalton weights , bottom set screw . The one with the arrow needs set screw pulled out just like the other pictured. This gives you better belt pinch in hole shots .(more weight at heel)

You don't have to do it this way. That's what's nice about these weights .. you can set heel,mid and tip to what ever you want
 
KennyK001 said:
I finally got everything, but the slp engine strap, installed and set up the way you recommended. The problem that I'm having is I can only get 7800 - 7850 rpm's.

I set the belt to sheave with a brand new belt. I did not go back to the broke in belt before testing.

After reading the proper way to change a helix, I'm not 100% sure if I'm using the 50/44 or the 52/46 ramps on the helix. I will check that and make sure I'm in the 50/44.

I will change back to the broke in belt, check that I'm using the 50/44 ramps and mark the clutches to see where the belt is running. Anything else I should check?
Click to expand...
What's your total set up again?
Different Snow conditions bring rpms up and down .that's why I suggested adjustable weights and try to rev 100 rpm over
 
Brock said:
What's your total set up again?
Different Snow conditions bring rpms up and down .that's why I suggested adjustable weights and try to rev 100 rpm over
Click to expand...
1/2" track sag
.010 belt sheave
1.73 gear ratio
Dalton's 68 gram - loaded like 1st pic above, will change to 2nd picture 120/310
50/44f or 52/46f - will check after work today and make sure it's 50/44f.
140/220

The snow was heavy and wet. 38° air temp.
 
What do you feel is the shortest set screw you can allow to hang out the back so you have enough threads so it doesn't fall out? You using blue Loctite on the set screws?

Brock said:
View attachment 1844 View attachment 1845
Dalton weights , bottom set screw . The one with the arrow needs set screw pulled out just like the other pictured. This gives you better belt pinch in hole shots .(more weight at heel)

You don't have to do it this way. That's what's nice about these weights .. you can set heel,mid and tip to what ever you want
Click to expand...
 
I am using the Dalton adjustable and i have the 1.3 on the heel and have two threads showing when i tried the 1.9 and 2.5 on the heel i had about three and a half treads showing with no Loctite and no issues
so far my best results in all different conditions 0.7 tip and 1.3 heel might be a good starting point for you to try
 
KennyK001 said:
1/2" track sag
.010 belt sheave
1.73 gear ratio
Dalton's 68 gram - loaded like 1st pic above, will change to 2nd picture 120/310
50/44f or 52/46f - will check after work today and make sure it's 50/44f.
140/220

The snow was heavy and wet. 38° air temp.
Click to expand...
Yes, check helix angle your using . If your mistakenly using the 52/46 , that a steep helix, and will bring your rpm down for sure. If it's in the 50/44, just loose about a gram of weight and try again
 
How much time did you give the gates. When I run a gates rpm are a lil low new about 50 miles later it's spot on
 
A little side note .
You should never need a 140/340 primary spring. If you're using a 340 finish, it's better to lose some primary weight or helix angle .
Heavy springs =more friction

Loose and friction free is fast
 
When setting Chain so there is 1/4" back/forth movement that means my tension bolt is backed off around 1.5 turns from where you can tighten it by hand. That sound right?

Brock said:
Check your clutches for any worn parts

Align properly, most times you only need about 0.120" washer behind secondary and let it float out 0.120"

Get the slp engine strap

Adjust suspension so it sags 5+ inches and very back of tunnel

Let track sag 1/2" after warming it up on stand . Check chain tension. Move secondary while parking brake on .should move back and forth a 1/4"

Belt to sheave 0.010-0.015"

1.73 ratio

I'd get adjustable weights . Best bang for your dollar . I like Dalton profile cause it's close to 10 series . Try around 68 gram's, a 120/310.

Secondary, a 50/44 or 48/44 full progressive with a 140/220

I'd try that
Click to expand...
 
I'm not sure how far I backed off the tension bolt. After I got it finger tight, I remember it seamed like I loosened it a lot to get it to 1/4 movement.
 
Do yourself a test guys?

Tighten chain the Polaris way.
Then move secondary back and forth.
 
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