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Clutching and gearing

I'm not really a tinkerer. Never touched a clutch in my life other than to grease the jack shaft bearing back when that was possible and taking on/off belts. I was thinking about just telling my dealer to throw in 10-68s when I take it in after this season. Adjustables sound out of my knowledge range. I'm not trying to have the fastest axys in the state and rarely race. I think it already runs great, just trying to do a few simple things to make it run a little better with my limited skills. Thanks for the advice. I've learned a ton about these things on these forums and in the fb groups.
 
stroker2 said:
You have the clutching picked out, only change i would make is the helix , look for the 48/44F - 46/42F helix, reason is the 46/42 cut will work better if you take the sled out west and the 48/44 cut will be better on the trail with the extra weight of the 1.750 track. Also SSI can custom cut you a helix with a trail cut 48/44F and a better mountain cut for out west, some like a straight 40 degree.
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Brock said:
Clutches aligned?

Float ?

For that track lug. I would go with a 1.80 ratio if top speed isn't important to you
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Any suggestions for 2.26 gearing for the sb prox on weights and springs..helix??
 
Really 2.26 gearing ? For what track and how are you using the sled ????
 
Powerlines with steep hills and ditchbanging. Trails here at best you need 80 mph ..never run lakes
 
I have the gears in now and is a blast sled stands up when ever you want but reading on here seaems like im not loading the primary with enough weight since its stock clutch setup
 
I've read through this entire thread and I couldn't really find anything that had my track and gearing and pipe, so I'm hoping to revive this thread from the dead.

I have a 2016 Pro-S 800

I have switched out the stock 1.25" track and 23/37 (1.61) gearing.
I went to a 2" backcountry because I do mostly off trail riding, and I also went with the 22/41 (1.86) gearing. I have a Jawz pipe and can, as well as a Team industries 140/320 primary spring and shimmed the secondary spring. I did the primary spring when it was stock and now feel like I may need to change my secondary clutch spring or helix with the new track and gearing. I am 185lbs and the sled is still at only 17.7 hours, so just about done break in. The sled was going to 8450rpm before the track and gear swap, and looking for the right clutching combo to make this new combo perform like it should. All input would be appreciated, thanks!
 
You need to know what rpm the jaws pipe is meant to run. At the least I'd run some 10-68 weights, Possibbly 70's
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
I ran all that you have listed in Maine on fast trail except my ratio was 1.67, my mod weights, and Polaris belt( gates wasent available yet) and it flys. Also used a 48-44 full with stock spring , and that flys.
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Hi Doc,
I also run in Maine, W Forks area. love Maine woods.
Quick question for you if you don't mind. I'm in the middle of prepping, a new to me, stock 2018 S-pro 600, recently added studs & can, but looking to work the gearing and clutch areas before the 2021 season. What're your thoughts on whether that setup you posted, would also work for the 600? Obviously, less HP, different results, but would the feel and or perception be close in relation to "experience of power"? I see you went up to a 1.67, I was thinking maybe I might try 1.86 which might be a nice fit for less HP, but equal feel??? Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

TJ
 
Telrush said:
Hi Doc,
I also run in Maine, W Forks area. love Maine woods.
Quick question for you if you don't mind. I'm in the middle of prepping, a new to me, stock 2018 S-pro 600, recently added studs & can, but looking to work the gearing and clutch areas before the 2021 season. What're your thoughts on whether that setup you posted, would also work for the 600? Obviously, less HP, different results, but would the feel and or perception be close in relation to "experience of power"? I see you went up to a 1.67, I was thinking maybe I might try 1.86 which might be a nice fit for less HP, but equal feel??? Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

TJ
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Hey TJ, I'm by no means a "guru" like Doc and some others here. But here's what i did to a 600 i have and it really woke it up.

Let track sag 3/8" when warmed up

A 1.71 gear ratio is best

Make sure all airbox joints are sealed good

V force reeds help

Clutching

A 120/310 with 10-60 weights.
0.0015" belt gap

48/42 full progressive helix , 140/240
 
Hi JF

Thanks for your input and sharing. Nice to compare what the 600 riders like yourself are doing for setups on said sleds.

I am running studs with my track, so I do believe, according to the specs from Polaris, they are stating "if you are using studs, you will want a 1" sag with a 25lb weight hanging from the track 16" forward of the rear axle.

Your gearing sounds interesting, what did you use for upper and lower sprockets? tooth wise? Also, I'm going to assume you changed out the stock chain of 70 links and went with a 68 link?

As for the airbox, this is the first I've heard about airbox leaks, but will definitely check on them. Thanks for that!

I have seen the V force reeds too and agree, these are further down my list at the present time.

As for your clutch setup, why did you drop in weight to a 60G, from the stock weight of 64G? ( I'm assuming we are talking about the same MY sleds, 2018?) I'm actually thinking of going up to 66G weights, but need more input from others that have tried weights heavier than stock beforehand. Seems your primary spring is also on the light side of stock, yes? I think stock is 140 -330, Your helix is stock, but did you also change this spring as well? I see 160 -240 for stock weights on driven clutch.

Anyway, good conversation and thank you again for all your suggestions and comments.

TJ
 
10-60 weights are way to light. Sled will overev and loose power. Fact. Use stock balanced weights. 10-64. 66 are ok on a REAL cold day but won't backshift as well. A 120-310 primary spring. Yes that is lighter. Keeps sled closer to powerband. A 46-42 full progressive helix and a secondary spring with about 20# less top tension.
 
racerdave said:
10-60 weights are way to light. Sled will overev and loose power. Fact. Use stock balanced weights. 10-64. 66 are ok on a REAL cold day but won't backshift as well. A 120-310 primary spring. Yes that is lighter. Keeps sled closer to powerband. A 46-42 full progressive helix and a secondary spring with about 20# less top tension.
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Dave,
Great feedback. Thank you kindly for the info. I'm a bit curious about why I would want to use stock weights thought? Does the 600 not deserve a "tune" within the weight's factor?

In any case, I think I'm going to break her in first with the stock setup to get a good baseline of how she "feels" and "pulls" awhile collecting data.

Right now, I'm just looking, learning, searching, for input in advance, so when the time comes, I can be better suited and knowledgeable as to how to proceed to fine-tune the CVT drive setup.

Lots to learn here and really enjoy the challenge. You guys are super!
 
Stock weights because Polaris 64 grams are what is best on a 600. If you are a tinker a set of heavy 64's that would be say 64.5 are worthwhile, or 66's ground down to 65 grams. But only through trial and error can you find out what works best. The OEM Polaris clutching is pretty good overall.
 
racerdave said:
Stock weights because Polaris 64 grams are what is best on a 600. If you are a tinker a set of heavy 64's that would be say 64.5 are worthwhile, or 66's ground down to 65 grams. But only through trial and error can you find out what works best. The OEM Polaris clutching is pretty good overall.
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Ok, very interesting. Looks like I'll be selling the set of QPA3 Daltons I ordered recently. I should have ordered the QPA 2 I'm guessing
 
Does it make a difference on size of gear or is it just ratio. for instance I'm running a 38 bottom/ 21 top at 1:81 ratio-68p chain
you can also get this with 40 bottom/22 top
Just trying to figure out my set up for my clutch
 
Gene said:
Does it make a difference on size of gear or is it just ratio. for instance I'm running a 38 bottom/ 21 top at 1:81 ratio-68p chain
you can also get this with 40 bottom/22 top
Just trying to figure out my set up for my clutch
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bigger gears are more efficient, usually less dog leg in the chain, There is a trade off if you search for it.
 
1.75 Back Country on 850 Axys Assault(no studs). 23/40 gearing? Or some other recommendations?
 
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