• We have updated the site to the latest version. You will be required to log in to make sure your account is active. There are quite a few new functions so it will take a little time to get use to it. Please post if you see or have any issues.

Proper clutch alignment

B

Brock

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,044
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
30+
Snowmobile
Polaris
As I've seen on many 800 HO axys sled's. The clutch alignment from factory is a broad range.

Using a 47477 alignment tool.
Place in primary and let rest, the gap between the front of 47477 tool and secondary needs to be 0.100" to 0.120".

After this, let secondary float out at least 0.100" and more.

I like inward and outward float at least 0.100"as the secondary will find it's way through engagement to full throttle. Outward secondary movement(float) is needed for engagement for primary and secondary to be parallel.Inward movement(float) is for primary and secondary to be parallel under full throttle.

So many clutches are misaligned and losing performance due to heat and belt residue because of heat. Belt residue causes belt slippage along with heat. This can cause lose of RPM and inconsistent RPM .

Hope this helps :)
 
Last edited:
Lol you lost me at as I've seen...lol...I think I need mine checked. But mine pulls great! I have the stage 2 SLP Kit on mine and it rocks! But I want a little more out of the clutch! I need someone like you helping me with that! Or maybe I'll bring it over to Toms and we can get her dialed in. I don't feel like I'm losing much. But maybe I could get a little more out of it. But I'm more than pleased with the power!
 
PolarisTim said:
Lol you lost me at as I've seen...lol...I think I need mine checked. But mine pulls great! I have the stage 2 SLP Kit on mine and it rocks! But I want a little more out of the clutch! I need someone like you helping me with that! Or maybe I'll bring it over to Toms and we can get her dialed in. I don't feel like I'm losing much. But maybe I could get a little more out of it. But I'm more than pleased with the power!
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150407_112434-20150407-232654503.jpg
    IMG_20150407_112434-20150407-232654503.jpg
    42.4 KB · Views: 1,993
My clutches are adjusted as per what Brock said and I can hold my hand on either clutch after a few long hard runs til I get frostbite.
 
If you had to make a compromise, maybe you didn't have enough shims or not the correct ones, but is it better for the secondary to have more or less space between the alignment tool and clutch sheaves?
 
Pro116 said:
Thanks Brock, This will help out a lot of members.
Click to expand...

To properly achieve clutch alignment as I posted some new washers in behind secondary and for bolt on front of secondary may need to be purchased. Polaris makes washers in behind secondary, and out front(bolt holding secondary)
Sizes, 0.040" , 0.060" , 0.080" , 0.100" , 0.120"
 
Racer254 said:
If you had to make a compromise, maybe you didn't have enough shims or not the correct ones, but is it better for the secondary to have more or less space between the alignment tool and clutch sheaves?
Click to expand...
The space between the tool and secondary is when full shift out is occurring. The motor slightly twists to rear and back under load, so the belt needs to be parallel . This is why inward float is needed.

Outward float is only needed for engagement.

In racing, we let it float a 1/4".

The secondary will find it's happy spot.:)
 
So far, it is a great explanation. Brock, can you list the Polaris PN for the secondary adjustment shims for everyone? I would, but I can't seem to find them.
 
Racer254 said:
So far, it is a great explanation. Brock, can you list the Polaris PN for the secondary adjustment shims for everyone? I would, but I can't seem to find them.
Click to expand...

for behind secondary

#7556509= 0.125"
#7555864=0.060"
#7555917= 0.040"


on bolt( i haven't measured thes)

#7555832
#7555806
 
500ssman said:
Looks like I'll be purchasing that alignment tool because I can betcha dollars to donuts that my dealer won't have the tool.
Click to expand...
My dealer got the alignment tool for the AXYS almost at the end of the season.
 
Seems dealers just received these alignment tools late in the season. Not their fault.

This is why I posted using the older 47477 alignment tool. It can be used as well. :)
 
You guys know your clutching and gear stuff, but im lost!!! I want mine to pull hard in the mid range, but also gain top speed. i have seen 107 on the speedo, on a hard packed trail. other than that one time, i see 102 most of the time... What can i do, but you guys have to explain it good cause im bad at clutching!!! but i can help with suspension!!!
 
PolarisTim said:
You guys know your clutching and gear stuff, but im lost!!! I want mine to pull hard in the mid range, but also gain top speed. i have seen 107 on the speedo, on a hard packed trail. other than that one time, i see 102 most of the time... What can i do, but you guys have to explain it good cause im bad at clutching!!! but i can help with suspension!!!
Click to expand...
First off before you do any clutching make sure your offset is correct as Brock posted. Then before you even think of clutching you'll have to gear it down to a ratio of 1.74. The stock gearing will only work really well and you'll only achieve full shift out on hero snow, and hero snow does not exist every day that you ride. The stock gearing is way too high. After gearing down to 1.74 then you can clutch. Here's what I used for clutching: 10-70 gram weights, 120-310 primary spring, stock helix with a 155-222 secondary spring. Also I would highly suggest a Gates belt pn 46C4387 as it is a wider belt thus it goes up higher in the primary giving you more speed. If you use the Gates belt you will have to add two more grams to your weight as it is a harder compound. Also a big plus with this belt is that it is immensely cheaper than a Polaris belt. For the gearing you'll need a 40 tooth HYVO gear and a 70 pitch HYVO chain. All that I could get out of my sled stock was 106 mph. After the gearing change I got on the same surface conditions 112 mph. :) As an added bonus I got better fuel mileage as at speeds of 90 mph my rpm was only around 6800-7000 rpm. That's cruising on long straights on groomed trails. Brock also has some good clutching combos that worked really well for him.
 
Well, I will give all that a shot, I would like to have everything you said it there. So would many others. I'm out worried cause I'm 250 Pounds and it won't work as good for me. It's like I need a fat guy set up...lol...I'm really not that fat, I would have someone with me or have some one set all that up! I can work on all my own stuff. It's just clutching sucks for me, and it's not fun for me to do. I wish o understood it better, cause that's huge!! Clutching is everything, on a sled. Do a couple of mods, and a clutch guy can make those mods show.
 
PolarisTim said:
Well, I will give all that a shot, I would like to have everything you said it there. So would many others. I'm out worried cause I'm 250 Pounds and it won't work as good for me. It's like I need a fat guy set up...lol...I'm really not that fat, I would have someone with me or have some one set all that up! I can work on all my own stuff. It's just clutching sucks for me, and it's not fun for me to do. I wish o understood it better, cause that's huge!! Clutching is everything, on a sled. Do a couple of mods, and a clutch guy can make those mods show.
Click to expand...
Didn't notice that you have a Pro X. I haven't clutched or geared one yet. Brock might have a better handle on what you can use for clutching and gearing.
 
Oh right on, I'll chat with him then. I also am having some more stuff put on. So until I'm done modding it then I'll clutch it. Can't wait!
 
Tim there are sled lengths in the secondary.Im not sure why Slp dident put a helix in with the stage 2 kit..however depending on your riding style you have options...If you want to use the stock sec. spring and gain some mid-range as you asked you need to load the sec. harder to make the motor work..a 58-44/.46 is a mild choice and will gain in the mid. that .100 makes a difference... your stock helix is (58-44/.36) the first 2 numbers means its partially progressive for the duration of the last # and thats why the .46 works better because its loading the sec. longer..the 44 is the finish angle for the duration of the clutch opening..my suggestion considering your using Slp MTX weights in the primary is to put a 50-44 full progressive helix with a 140-200 sec. spring..ive dynoed an Axys with the Slp pipe and 8300 is the RPM your looking for..the sled lost 5 hp at 8400..and keep weight in the tip of those weights ,leave the mid open , if it over reves put a 3gram rivet in the tip and back off on the hi tension primary spring it comes with be in the 290 -310 range..IMO i can back all this info up
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom