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Proper clutch alignment

Dr.Notadoo said:
Tim there are sled lengths in the secondary.Im not sure why Slp dident put a helix in with the stage 2 kit..however depending on your riding style you have options...If you want to use the stock sec. spring and gain some mid-range as you asked you need to load the sec. harder to make the motor work..a 58-44/.46 is a mild choice and will gain in the mid. that .100 makes a difference... your stock helix is (58-44/.36) the first 2 numbers means its partially progressive for the duration of the last # and thats why the .46 works better because its loading the sec. longer..the 44 is the finish angle for the duration of the clutch opening..my suggestion considering your using Slp MTX weights in the primary is to put a 50-44 full progressive helix with a 140-200 sec. spring..ive dynoed an Axys with the Slp pipe and 8300 is the RPM your looking for..the sled lost 5 hp at 8400..and keep weight in the tip of those weights ,leave the mid open , if it over reves put a 3gram rivet in the tip and back off on the hi tension primary spring it comes with be in the 290 -310 range..IMO i can back all this info up
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Good choice in helix, works very well in backshifting through the trails and gets you the upshift you need to lay it down on your buddies.

I like the 70/44.46 and the 66/44.46 helix also

Weights are your main tuning tool, springs are your fine tuning
 
Brock said:
Chat away my friend:)
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I like what you had to say there, it makes sense. I'm at around 8300-8350 RPM at WOT. It just seams like there is something I am missing. I mean it goes great and hauls ass. I just feel like there can be a couple of sleds faster yet. I will try your set up. With the helix and secondary spring.
So around 8400 RPM is where she drops down and loses HP....
 
Yes I think they should of changed the helix too. But I've been talking with Full Power Performance and they are going to have a clutch set up. So I might wait and try that too. I mean mine is just fine and it rips, I just want more I guess, like all of us...
 
I keep reading your advice and it sounds really good, but it goes in one ear and out the other. I just don't understand...lol... I'm the same way with carbs. I can rebuild a motor and I was a jet mech. On the F/A 18 Hornet while I was in the Navy and could take apart that motor and put it back together no problem, but clutching is beyond me...lmao!! It seems like I just need someone to set my clutch up and then I go ride it and let them know the outcome and change accordingly. But for me to change springs and weights won't help cause I'm just not getting what I'm doing! I think it's funny, but frustrating because I know clutching is where the power comes from and is the most important part!
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
Tim there are sled lengths in the secondary.Im not sure why Slp dident put a helix in with the stage 2 kit..however depending on your riding style you have options...If you want to use the stock sec. spring and gain some mid-range as you asked you need to load the sec. harder to make the motor work..a 58-44/.46 is a mild choice and will gain in the mid. that .100 makes a difference... your stock helix is (58-44/.36) the first 2 numbers means its partially progressive for the duration of the last # and thats why the .46 works better because its loading the sec. longer..the 44 is the finish angle for the duration of the clutch opening..my suggestion considering your using Slp MTX weights in the primary is to put a 50-44 full progressive helix with a 140-200 sec. spring..ive dynoed an Axys with the Slp pipe and 8300 is the RPM your looking for..the sled lost 5 hp at 8400..and keep weight in the tip of those weights ,leave the mid open , if it over reves put a 3gram rivet in the tip and back off on the hi tension primary spring it comes with be in the 290 -310 range..IMO i can back all this info up
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Is this using the SLP Weights? I see they have some kinda magnetic style
 
If I were you.
I would choose 10 series weights and a 66/44.46 or 50/44 full progressive.
 
PolarisTim said:
I wrote that down. I'm pretty happy with where it's at, I just know there's more to get from the clutching!
Thank you!!
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Have you made some good runs on hard pack with your primary marked to see what this clutch kit is getting for shift out??

There is always more in clutching and I never stop testing as I love tuning anyways. There's something about being on hard pack or lake on a nice winter day with a tool box full of springs, helixs, weights and a radar gun. That to me is just as much fun as trail riding.
 
using 47477 alignment tool the secondary is pushed in towards bulkhead and the gap is 0.120" at front. Polaris says 0.120" washer between secondary and bearing. It can be 0.080" safely.
Polaris says 0.010"-0.050" float. It can be 0.120" safely.

Don't want to complicate this to much. When belt is perfectly parallel under load, I like to have float on both sides(inward and outward). Doing what I said above does this .
 
Brock said:
using 47477 alignment tool the secondary is pushed in towards bulkhead and the gap is 0.120" at front. Polaris says 0.120" washer between secondary and bearing. It can be 0.080" safely.
Polaris says 0.010"-0.050" float. It can be 0.120" safely.

Don't want to complicate this to much. When belt is perfectly parallel under load, I like to have float on both sides(inward and outward). Doing what I said above does this .
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Exactly. Aligning clutches like this can almost guarantee longevity in belt life. ;)
 
I didn't read all of this, so forgive me if I'm reprinting.

PS-51607 is the AXYS alignment tool. I have mine.
PS-47477 is the LWT/TSS-04 alignment tool for the Pro chassis, but can be used with the proper proceedgers.
 
I've done the clutch alignment but I still feel as my clutch's are getting hot. My question is if the primary isn't shimmed correctly would that create heat and excessive belt wear on the big end? If I unload the primary my belt, top of cogs runs about 1/4 from top of primary sheaves. Is this causing the heat. There's also a gap in the motor mounts on the front side of the PTO side mounts. Change them? 1200 miles.
 
Poo2Bone said:
I've done the clutch alignment but I still feel as my clutch's are getting hot. My question is if the primary isn't shimmed correctly would that create heat and excessive belt wear on the big end? If I unload the primary my belt, top of cogs runs about 1/4 from top of primary sheaves. Is this causing the heat. There's also a gap in the motor mounts on the front side of the PTO side mounts. Change them? 1200 miles.
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Does your clutch chatter at idle?? The reason I'm asking is cause the spider to tower clearance has been excessive on some. 0.002" clearance is what's it's supposed to be. I've seen new axys(including mine) with 0.008" clearance. It will chatter at idle and could bind a little on up shift. Get your dealer to check this under warranty. After that, make sure all other clutch components are good too. Then move on to checking springs.
By shim, I think you mean index??
Get your dealer to check belt to sheave clearance with the new belt your going to use.
eg. Gates, Polaris,etc.......
 
PolarisTim said:
Well, I will give all that a shot, I would like to have everything you said it there. So would many others. I'm out worried cause I'm 250 Pounds and it won't work as good for me. It's like I need a fat guy set up...lol...I'm really not that fat, I would have someone with me or have some one set all that up! I can work on all my own stuff. It's just clutching sucks for me, and it's not fun for me to do. I wish o understood it better, cause that's huge!! Clutching is everything, on a sled. Do a couple of mods, and a clutch guy can make those mods show.
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Come on Tim face it your fat!!!!!:Moon
 
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