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Proper clutch alignment

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I received my alignment tool and it's nniiicccceeee

Tapatalk blackmamba
 
ninjaplumber said:
I can only process credit payment through Ebay. You can send me a private message if you want to purchase differently.
Click to expand...
Ebay sucks.

You must have paypal. EBay takes a chunk of your money.

You could sell it for less and people send you PayPal direct

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Ebay works well especially if you have several items to sell and don't wish to be burdened with a website or some other way of promoting your wares. Paypal gets a cut either way unless your trying to circumvent the system using friends and family.
 
Ebay gets a bigger cut then paypal. It's ridiculous. And eBay owns paypal I believe.

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Yeah there are a number of credit card processors. You have to pay someone to process those payments. Ebay charges to display your products if you don't have some other medium to do it. Paypal even though they own it still gets a cut as that business is different from the sales portion. I think there are more processors out there but it sometimes comes down to convenience of the seller not the buyer.
 
You should have a PayPal already if you setup eBay.

PayPal would be the easiest. And most people have paypal. I've been using PayPal for like over 13 yrs. No issues

Didn't want to go off topic in this thread but you could sell a bit cheaper getting rid of eBay costs.

I just sold $65 part on ebay and they charged me $14 for commission. Retarded

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Brock said:
If I were you.
I would choose 10 series weights and a 66/44.46 or 50/44 full progressive.
Click to expand...
Bin following this thread as I'm in similar boat. Is the setup mentioned here the same setup ur running on ur pro x? If so what track are u using??
Also, will this setup work with a stock machine running 1.73 - 1.74 ratio, or were u only recommending that setup for an slp stage 2 kit?

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Dat'Speed said:
Bin following this thread as I'm in similar boat. Is the setup mentioned here the same setup ur running on ur pro x? If so what track are u using??
Also, will this setup work with a stock machine running 1.73 - 1.74 ratio, or were u only recommending that setup for an slp stage 2 kit?

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Click to expand...
What's your sled?
Riding style?
Elevation?
Weight?
Track?
Corner to corner?

We can help you choose something Div20
 
Brock said:
What's your sled?
Riding style?
Elevation?
Weight?
Track?
Corner to corner?

We can help you choose something Div20
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot Brock.
Sled - SB pro X

Riding style - off trail is preferred riding, I do it wherever I can find a ditch, field, etc. I live in central Ontario tho so trails are everywhere and I shred them like I'm winning a snowcross national. If I were to break it down, I'd say I'm 50/50 to 60/40 off trail bias.

Elevation - 500m and under

Weight - 205 without gear

Track - 1.6 Cobra, 96 studs

Corner to Corner - important, but so is top speed. I absolutely want to be able to go faster than 105 mph on any given day, not just hero snow. I'd like to hit 110-112 consistently. That said I want to still have the neck snapping thrust that supposedly can pull a 0-60 in 3.3 seconds.

Thanks again for taking the time to reply Brock


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First of all I would get your primary machined a little for over-drive and balanced after at cv-tech in Quebec

So I think you have a 1.86 gear ratio. That works well with your 1.6" track and your 50/50 riding style. The highest I would go would be 1.79 ratio for what you have and want

Since you do 50/50 riding. I would invest in a set of adjustable weights in primary as you can change easily in different terrain and temps. A good Canadian company is dalton industries for those weights (no us money exchange or duty)

Get your primary back in and check for alignment (at dealer)
Let secondary float 0.100-0.120" with no less then a 0.100" thick washer behind secondary

If you get adjustable weights, start with around 70 grams. 0.015" belt to sheave with new gates belt, try a 110/290 or 120/300 primary spring

Your secondary,
A full progressive is best for your riding style and will give you instant back shift. Go with a 48/42 full progressive helix and a 140/240

The 1.86 gear ratio you have or no higher then 1.79 ratio

Get tps checked, valves sync'd and any other trouble codes at your dealer

Warm up track with sled raised, track should sag 1/2" from sliders at 16" from center of back idlers up

Make sure all air box and throttle bodies are sealed nicely

Your rider sag in should be at least 4-5 " at back

Try some of this
 
Brock said:
First of all I would get your primary machined a little for over-drive and balanced after at cv-tech in Quebec

So I think you have a 1.86 gear ratio. That works well with your 1.6" track and your 50/50 riding style. The highest I would go would be 1.79 ratio for what you have and want

Since you do 50/50 riding. I would invest in a set of adjustable weights in primary as you can change easily in different terrain and temps. A good Canadian company is dalton industries for those weights (no us money exchange or duty)

Get your primary back in and check for alignment (at dealer)
Let secondary float 0.100-0.120" with no less then a 0.100" thick washer behind secondary

If you get adjustable weights, start with around 70 grams. 0.015" belt to sheave with new gates belt, try a 110/290 or 120/300 primary spring

Your secondary,
A full progressive is best for your riding style and will give you instant back shift. Go with a 48/42 full progressive helix and a 140/240

The 1.86 gear ratio you have or no higher then 1.79 ratio

Get tps checked, valves sync'd and any other trouble codes at your dealer

Warm up track with sled raised, track should sag 1/2" from sliders at 16" from center of back idlers up

Make sure all air box and throttle bodies are sealed nicely

Your rider sag in should be at least 4-5 " at back

Try some of this
Click to expand...
This is all terrific info brother, however because of the deal I've arranged with my dealer to do this work upon arrival, they won't machine the helix nor do I think they sufficiently know how and to what spec.
I also have a question regarding what u said about not going higher than 1.79....why is that? I had told my dealer originally that I wanted 1:73 or 1:74, and they called me today to confirm before they started work on it.... I said told them to wait cuz I wanted to consult HCS one more time. Other experienced sled heads on here like northstarrick and bigfuse and I think a cpl others all recommended the 1.74 ballpark, so I'm curious to hear what u have to say on the matter before I go ahead and call my dealer back with confirmation.
Basically, in a nurshell, if u were me and ur dealer said "how should I gear and clutch this bitch", what woolf u tell him to do??
Thanks again Brock, sorry to keep prying

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Last edited:
HCS.....lol. This forum is where you want to get your info. Believe me.
 
What does/can dealer do to correctly test TPS and valves synced? All done via digital wrench?

Brock said:
First of all I would get your primary machined a little for over-drive and balanced after at cv-tech in Quebec

So I think you have a 1.86 gear ratio. That works well with your 1.6" track and your 50/50 riding style. The highest I would go would be 1.79 ratio for what you have and want

Since you do 50/50 riding. I would invest in a set of adjustable weights in primary as you can change easily in different terrain and temps. A good Canadian company is dalton industries for those weights (no us money exchange or duty)

Get your primary back in and check for alignment (at dealer)
Let secondary float 0.100-0.120" with no less then a 0.100" thick washer behind secondary

If you get adjustable weights, start with around 70 grams. 0.015" belt to sheave with new gates belt, try a 110/290 or 120/300 primary spring

Your secondary,
A full progressive is best for your riding style and will give you instant back shift. Go with a 48/42 full progressive helix and a 140/240

The 1.86 gear ratio you have or no higher then 1.79 ratio

Get tps checked, valves sync'd and any other trouble codes at your dealer

Warm up track with sled raised, track should sag 1/2" from sliders at 16" from center of back idlers up

Make sure all air box and throttle bodies are sealed nicely

Your rider sag in should be at least 4-5 " at back

Try some of this
Click to expand...
 
Good call on the digital reach and check tps, I'll be sure to remind them

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Any last advice on the setup I should tell my dealer to go with? Again, nothing aftermarket, they will play with different springs and weights, and they will use the helix that comes from factory. I just wanna have an idea as to what I should tell them, and if they have a different opinion then I'd like to bounce it of u guys again before I give them the green light. I find the knowledge and experience on this sight to be great so I appreciate ur guys' advice on what works, and particularly what works with the track I've got and the riding I do. A last minute tip would be more than helpful


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Dat'Speed said:
Any last advice on the setup I should tell my dealer to go with? Again, nothing aftermarket, they will play with different springs and weights, and they will use the helix that comes from factory. I just wanna have an idea as to what I should tell them, and if they have a different opinion then I'd like to bounce it of u guys again before I give them the green light. I find the knowledge and experience on this sight to be great so I appreciate ur guys' advice on what works, and particularly what works with the track I've got and the riding I do. A last minute tip would be more than helpful


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Click to expand...
These things aren't that hard to work on. If youre mechanically inclined these guys on this site are very good at steering you in the right direction. Get a couple clutch tools, research youtube and do it yourself. Youre only doing springs and helix. Maybe some weights. Theres certain things the dealer has to do for you but not all of it. Save some money.
 
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