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Proper clutch alignment

Dat'Speed said:
This is all terrific info brother, however because of the deal I've arranged with my dealer to do this work upon arrival, they won't machine the helix nor do I think they sufficiently know how and to what spec.
I also have a question regarding what u said about not going higher than 1.79....why is that? I had told my dealer originally that I wanted 1:73 or 1:74, and they called me today to confirm before they started work on it.... I said told them to wait cuz I wanted to consult HCS one more time. Other experienced sled heads on here like northstarrick and bigfuse and I think a cpl others all recommended the 1.74 ballpark, so I'm curious to hear what u have to say on the matter before I go ahead and call my dealer back with confirmation.
Basically, in a nurshell, if u were me and ur dealer said "how should I gear and clutch this bitch", what woolf u tell him to do??
Thanks again Brock, sorry to keep prying

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk
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By higher gear ratio , I meant 1.79 not like 1.68 ratio or something?

And by machining, it's the primary, not secondary bud . For over-drive.
 
Checking my buddies new 16' found alignment to be off. Single .120 spacer behind clutch,(factory), but will not clear 51607 tool with any more than a .020 spacer. Where to look? What to check?? Engine mount?

Cody g
 
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Ok, so got my awesome clutch alignment tool from NinjaPlumber. Put it on and front of secondary touching. Tool dod not look like it was fully resting against primary either. Took secondary off, (2) .120 shims behind, removed one and now I have about .120 of clearance from tool. Now for float do I measure from where I pull it out and it hits the tool and what's left to the bolt is flat or is it all of the movement? Also, NinjaPlumber don't take this wrong but how do I verify tool, or how do you? Thanks for help everyone.
 
cody geyer said:
Checking my buddies new 16' found alignment to be off. Single .120 spacer behind clutch,(factory), but will not clear 51607 tool with any more than a .020 spacer. Where to look? What to check?? Engine mount?

Cody g
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If your clutch offset is way out of spec I would look at the following before adjusting the motor.

Make sure primary clutch is clean.

Make sure alignment tool is sitting in primary correctly. (Both edges capture the outside diameter and the angled back side sitting against the movable side of the primary).

Put your left hand on center of tool in primary to make sure it stays sitting square.

If the alignment tool is touching the secondary on the left side you want to make sure it is not adding “spring” to the tool giving you a false reading on the right side of the secondary.

You can do this by subtracting one washer behind the secondary, measure it and then put the tool back minus that washer and see if the clearance you had change by the same amount.

Rotate your primary clutch and retake your measurements. This will eliminate your crankshaft not being “true”.

Rotate your secondary and take measurements. I have seen them not perfectly true.

If all of the above seems fine I would then adjust the motor.

I can send you a scan of the procedure to adjust the motor if you do not have a service manual. Hope this helps. Glenn
 
Burns32000 said:
Ok, so got my awesome clutch alignment tool from NinjaPlumber. Put it on and front of secondary touching. Tool dod not look like it was fully resting against primary either. Took secondary off, (2) .120 shims behind, removed one and now I have about .120 of clearance from tool. Now for float do I measure from where I pull it out and it hits the tool and what's left to the bolt is flat or is it all of the movement? Also, NinjaPlumber don't take this wrong but how do I verify tool, or how do you? Thanks for help everyone.
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See my above post.
When putting the tool in the primary rotate it upwards so it is not touching the secondary. Then slowly rotate the tool clockwise and rest on the secondary hub. If it is touching on the left side of the secondary you will have subtract a washer as suggested above and follow the procedure.
Lift sled off ground and rotate the secondary and check in several locations. I found they are not always "true".
As far as checking the tool for accuracy yourself it is not possible at home. The primary has compound angles and compound radiuses. The part that touches the secondary has an angle. The two marks on the back side is where we take some measurements to ensure accuracy. Unless someone used the tool as a pry bar it will be 100% accurate. This tool was also sent out to a performance shop to independently verify the accuracy against their "stock" tool.
All measurements with the tool are taken with the clutch pushed inwards.
If after all the above is done if you think there is something wrong with the tool I will certainly refund your money. No problem. I will also offer you the use of the "stock" tool as long as you promise to return. Hope this helps. Glenn
 
ninjaplumber said:
See my above post.
When putting the tool in the primary rotate it upwards so it is not touching the secondary. Then slowly rotate the tool clockwise and rest on the secondary hub. If it is touching on the left side of the secondary you will have subtract a washer as suggested above and follow the procedure.
Lift sled off ground and rotate the secondary and check in several locations. I found they are not always "true".
As far as checking the tool for accuracy yourself it is not possible at home. The primary has compound angles and compound radiuses. The part that touches the secondary has an angle. The two marks on the back side is where we take some measurements to ensure accuracy. Unless someone used the tool as a pry bar it will be 100% accurate. This tool was also sent out to a performance shop to independently verify the accuracy against their "stock" tool.
All measurements with the tool are taken with the clutch pushed inwards.
If after all the above is done if you think there is something wrong with the tool I will certainly refund your money. No problem. I will also offer you the use of the "stock" tool as long as you promise to return. Hope this helps. Glenn
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Thank you sir. I will try and rotate the secondary and see what I get. I do have a CMM and if you send me your print I would more than happy to check it for you also for another data point. I feel very comfortable though myself, knowing you have done the checks you said you did. Tool was brand new when I used it and I promise you it was not used as a pry bar or baseball bat. I just wanted assurances before making such a large change that 1. I was doing it right, 2. The tool was accurate, 3. Is it common to have to make such a large change on a brand new low miles sled(200mi)
Thanks for the help!
 
Here is a question, with the OEM Primary and Secondary, and using the OEM offset/alignment tool, with perfect offset/alignment set... the secondary should only tend to float inward towards the bulkhead correct? Since the outer sheave is stationary on the secondary, the belt should get pulled slightly inward towards the bulkhead is my thinking right?

Reason I ask is because I'm questioning how much inner/outer float to have on the secondary - and on both my Axys sleds if just revving it up on the track stand and allowing the track to rotate and come to a stop on its own, the secondary always seems to float as far outwards as possible - which seems a bit odd to me.
 
The secondary should float OUTWARD When the primary grabs the belt it pulls the secondary outward because the motor twists outward. The float saves the bearing on the jackstaft as much as anything.
 
Put one washer on secondary clutch bolt only to test on jack stand . Give it tons of float just to see .

Pull secondary as far outwards as u can and start it. Look at secondary when u hit the throttle. The secondary will move in under load. Let throttle go and it will move outward

Just a test to satisfy yourself
 
Seems the secondary will stay outwards until you really mash the throttle, then it moves inwards towards the bulkhead...

Brock said:
Put one washer on secondary clutch bolt only to test on jack stand . Give it tons of float just to see .

Pull secondary as far outwards as u can and start it. Look at secondary when u hit the throttle. The secondary will move in under load. Let throttle go and it will move outward

Just a test to satisfy yourself
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Outward float is for belt alignment in stationary position

Under load the secondary will move in to bulkhead (inward float) as engine moves towards the driver

The engine moves under load as it should. Polaris has this engineered and is in the alignment tool

Just let it float in from tool 0.060” and let it float out past tool 0.060” and you’re good
Doesn’t need to be complicated Div20
 
Out of curiosity, is the Axys alignment tool just for checking secondary float or is there some sort of adjustment you can do with the engine mounts to change the angle the engine sits at and/or the C to C distance from primary to secondary?

Seems to me the rubber engine mounts and the "torque link" put the engine where they put it and there's nothing you can do to change it...
 
k5blazer72 said:
Out of curiosity, is the Axys alignment tool just for checking secondary float or is there some sort of adjustment you can do with the engine mounts to change the angle the engine sits at and/or the C to C distance from primary to secondary?

Seems to me the rubber engine mounts and the "torque link" put the engine where they put it and there's nothing you can do to change it...
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Well apparently I was wrong. LOL. In reading the Axys manual, I found out there is a slight adjustment that can be made to the front MAG side motor mount to change the engine alignment.

Does anyone in the GTA or East area have an Axys alignment tool I could borrow for an afternoon????

Axys engine alignment procedure.jpg
 
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