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Any aftermarket pipe should work with a stock can. Lots of guys do it to get the Performance but keep noise down

Yup bumped down the gearing a tad and put some custom clutching in courtesy of doc. Starting to get the hang of what changes do what a bit

Mine got too hot to touch last year so that was one of many reasons I had to switch it from stock

I think what he means is that it isn't what it should be and that tightening their tolerances for example would cost them more money. Same reason they use cheap fasteners, shitty bearings, etc.

And yes, Brock feel free to clean up our comments if you wanna keep this thread more on point. I certainly appreciate the advice but it wasn't the intent of my initial post.

Thanks Heath, I'm gonna screenshot this so I can find it again this fall lol. And the Axys is the first sled I've ever attempted to work on so I'm still a newbie at a lot of this stuff, especially clutching. My clutches were too hot to touch last year when beating on it off trail so I knew...

Yeah that's pretty much it. I'm unstudded so most of the time it spins on a launch. What do you mean by keeping it in sync? It's bone stock right now but I was planning on putting 10-68s in it, unless you recommend something else. I was planning on lowering the stock 1.68 gearing down to 1.73...

It's a good problem to have and while it's really minor compared to the engine exploding, I know many 17s, including my own, are overrevving pretty badly. Any customers mentioning this? Mine will bounce off 8450-8500 once in a while and sit around 8350-8400 wot

I'd much rather replace slides than clips. A slide change is a 10 minute super simple job if they slide in/out easily. Never changed clips but that sounds like a PITA

Wow. I imagine they're not cheap, but if they last forever it would be worth it

A straight water system sounds like it could go wrong pretty easily due to the cold temps but it looks like a splash of meth really lowers the freezing point. I know this chart is for wiper fluid but it's pretty similar, no?

Diff application obviously but water/meth injection works great in high performance diesels where boost can be near or into triple digits

If you want a 144 just get a SBA 1.35 or 1.6 cobra. Unless you're a constant tweaker and tuner with a bunch of mechanical know how like doc. To stay on topic, my Axys is getting some minor changes for next year. 10-68s to bring the revs down a tad, adding a tooth on the bottom gear to get 1.73...

Wouldn't stretching a 120 to a 144 really throw off the geometry of the pro xc? The pivot arm would only be like a 1/3 of the way from the rear axle. Not to mention a rear tail section that would have to be extended somehow. And with how close the cooler is that would sound tricky. Not saying...

It's on a 155 SKS with a 1" track with seemingly a thousand chisels and wide trail front end too. Ridiculous.

Sat on a 850 XRS renny at the lake Geneva races and it was like sitting on a bowl of jello. So squishy. How you ride a performance sled with that beats me

Gotcha, here's mine then. IFS- stock, which is also the minimum 2 1/2" FTS- I like mine a little on the tight side so that it teeter totters more on the Axys point and is more reactive to rider positioning. 1 7/16-1/2" RTS- 2 5/8" Clickers are towards the soft side for the lo so that it soaks...

Open your manual, set it to factory stock specs, put some miles on it, decide what you want it to do, and tweak from there. Spring preload is for ride height and weight transfer. Clickers are for bump compliance.

Send fastsleddr a PM. He has lots of axys parts. Not sure about a long block tho. Or give him a call. Krahn Performance in Beaver Dam WI. Ask for Jim