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Clutching and gearing

AxysProS8 said:
I ride Maine all the time. I would like to maybe meet this yr to see the difference myself with lower gears. Kinda the same, but my Supercharged car is faster with 3.73s then it was with 4.11s. Most likely due to where the Rpm ended and where it made its power. I kinda agree lower isn't always better.
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It will always be faster with higher gears, depending on how far you want to go. However it will always be quicker with lower gears in a 1/4 mile, like drag racing. Remember e.t. wins races not mph. What it boils down to is how far you want to race. With a Pro S with stock gearing, 1.61 it's theoretically geared for 110 mph. You may get that speed on hero snow with a long distance and you surely won't get 10% overdrive with that gearing. Now with 1.74 gearing at 8250 rpm it's geared for 102 mph. Factor in 10% overdrive and you will get 112 mph. And you will certainly be able to pull that gearing a lot easier than the stock 1.61 gearing thus making it quicker and faster. With 1.74 gearing I can absolutely destroy a stock Pro S with stock gearing. Also don't forget that your car has gears and your sled has a CVT where the secondary is load sensitive unlike a car with gears which is not load sensitive.
 
PoPo said:
This gearing and clutching is all new to me but the more I read and the more questions I ask the more I understand. First off its a cvt system and the gearing is only one part of it. Changes can be made in the clutches to accommodate changes in the gearing (cant do that in a car). I can see where all this works although I'm not quite sure why the belt rides higher on the clutch after gearing down, which is where I believe the higher top end comes from. Having lower gears gets you better et which imo gets you better corner to corner, as long as you change your cvt system. Now the part that i'm stuck at is it didn't work for some guys. I'm gonna try it as I have the parts and nothing to loose. My buddy also has a 15 pro s shorty and is only doing springs (to help hold the r's) and I think a can, so we can compare. The axys is supposed to be better than the pro r but I think my 13 was quicker and faster. I think these changes will help.
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The belt rides higher in the primary because it has less of a load to pull thus the motor is not working as hard with the lower gearing. As for a can Ive never seen any can produce more horsepower than stock. The can is certainly lighter, but that's about it.
 
Bigfuse said:
The belt rides higher in the primary because it has less of a load to pull thus the motor is not working as hard with the lower gearing. As for a can Ive never seen any can produce more horsepower than stock. The can is certainly lighter, but that's about it.
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Gotcha on the belt, thx. Ya I think it was outcast mentioned a loss of hp with a can. I told my buddy but I'm not sure if he is still gonna buy one. I cant quite get him to understand the gearing thing so he is only doing springs. Which is good as it will give us a comparison. I'm assuming the gear/clutch change is noticeable?? Will I feel better pull??
 
Bigfuse said:
It will always be faster with higher gears, depending on how far you want to go. However it will always be quicker with lower gears in a 1/4 mile, like drag racing. Remember e.t. wins races not mph. What it boils down to is how far you want to race. With a Pro S with stock gearing, 1.61 it's theoretically geared for 110 mph. You may get that speed on hero snow with a long distance and you surely won't get 10% overdrive with that gearing. Now with 1.74 gearing at 8250 rpm it's geared for 102 mph. Factor in 10% overdrive and you will get 112 mph. And you will certainly be able to pull that gearing a lot easier than the stock 1.61 gearing thus making it quicker and faster. With 1.74 gearing I can absolutely destroy a stock Pro S with stock gearing. Also don't forget that your car has gears and your sled has a CVT where the secondary is load sensitive unlike a car with gears which is not load sensitive.
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I get it, i just gotta see to believe. I think with the 5 sleds at Dynotech all being a little bit different, it wont always work.
Mine aeems to pull really good mph like Maladjusted sled so i would like to compare againsta geared one. Thats all
 
PoPo said:
This gearing and clutching is all new to me but the more I read and the more questions I ask the more I understand. First off its a cvt system and the gearing is only one part of it. Changes can be made in the clutches to accommodate changes in the gearing (cant do that in a car). I can see where all this works although I'm not quite sure why the belt rides higher on the clutch after gearing down, which is where I believe the higher top end comes from. Having lower gears gets you better et which imo gets you better corner to corner, as long as you change your cvt system. Now the part that i'm stuck at is it didn't work for some guys. I'm gonna try it as I have the parts and nothing to loose. My buddy also has a 15 pro s shorty and is only doing springs (to help hold the r's) and I think a can, so we can compare. The axys is supposed to be better than the pro r but I think my 13 was quicker and faster. I think these changes will help.
Click to expand...
Ill inbox u when heading up to Maine, maybe we could meet up somewhere to compare a little
 
I did the regear yesterday. 23-40 with IQR tensioner.


Buttoned it all up and left it till this morning to refill chaincase. Put in my preferred chaincase lube.


I looked on the running board for the magnetic case fill plug and don't see it. I looked around a little and could not find it. I slowly starting putting all my tools away, cleaning them off and checking for the magnetic plug, thinking it may have stuck to a wrench,socket etc. Nothing. Then I went through my box of new packaged nuts,bolts,washers,another IQR tensioner thinking maybe it stuck to them. Nothing. Now I'm getting pissed. Double checked everywhere. Oh fuk, could it be stuck to a gear in the buttoned up chaincase? Jacked up the sled and tried to turn secondary by hand. 1/4 turn or so each way and stop. Fuk me! Oh well I guess I found it. Out come the tools again and I start taking shit apart again. Battery and case out,caliper off. Rotor off.For removing and reinstalling the caliper this flex head mac torque wrench and multi angle flex head snap On ratchet are a big help.


Now I go get the mighty vac out of the tool box, open it and low and behold look what I see





I am a happy fella. Time for a


and



to calm me down. The track is tight from the dealer putting new slides on last spring. Forgot about that. I am relieved.
 
AxysProS8 said:
I get it, i just gotta see to believe. I think with the 5 sleds at Dynotech all being a little bit different, it wont always work.
Mine aeems to pull really good mph like Maladjusted sled so i would like to compare againsta geared one. Thats all
Click to expand...
PoPo said:
Gotcha on the belt, thx. Ya I think it was outcast mentioned a loss of hp with a can. I told my buddy but I'm not sure if he is still gonna buy one. I cant quite get him to understand the gearing thing so he is only doing springs. Which is good as it will give us a comparison. I'm assuming the gear/clutch change is noticeable?? Will I feel better pull??
Click to expand...
I did. When you see that you can reel in stock geared and clutched sleds then you'll know what I'm talking about. Div20
 
AxysProS8 said:
I get it, i just gotta see to believe. I think with the 5 sleds at Dynotech all being a little bit different, it wont always work.
Mine aeems to pull really good mph like Maladjusted sled so i would like to compare againsta geared one. Thats all
Click to expand...
Yup Maladjusted's sled really rips on top end that's for sure. Bear in mind that there is a wide window of tolerances that sleds have their parts made and installed. Earlier on at the beginning of last season Brock was getting ridiculous clutch heat and my clutches were really cool. Heat is the enemy of a CVT system. After we compared notes we found out that he had too many shims between his secondary and jackshaft bearing. He ended up removing one shim from between the secondary and bearing. He and I also added some shims between the secondary bolt and spacer that goes on the bolt. When the engine is under load the secondary finds its happy spot and is aligned with the primary thus no CVT heat and a more efficient CVT system.
 
racerdave where did u get the iqr adjuster? I've been looking and cant find one
 
I got them from Babbits back in early August.
 
racerdave said:
I did the regear yesterday. 23-40 with IQR tensioner.


Buttoned it all up and left it till this morning to refill chaincase. Put in my preferred chaincase lube.


I looked on the running board for the magnetic case fill plug and don't see it. I looked around a little and could not find it. I slowly starting putting all my tools away, cleaning them off and checking for the magnetic plug, thinking it may have stuck to a wrench,socket etc. Nothing. Then I went through my box of new packaged nuts,bolts,washers,another IQR tensioner thinking maybe it stuck to them. Nothing. Now I'm getting pissed. Double checked everywhere. Oh fuk, could it be stuck to a gear in the buttoned up chaincase? Jacked up the sled and tried to turn secondary by hand. 1/4 turn or so each way and stop. Fuk me! Oh well I guess I found it. Out come the tools again and I start taking shit apart again. Battery and case out,caliper off. Rotor off.For removing and reinstalling the caliper this flex head mac torque wrench and multi angle flex head snap On ratchet are a big help.


Now I go get the mighty vac out of the tool box, open it and low and behold look what I see





I am a happy fella. Time for a


and



to calm me down. The track is tight from the dealer putting new slides on last spring. Forgot about that. I am relieved.
Click to expand...
Hahaha, glad it ended well :D
 
Bigfuse said:
It's not a slider it's a roller assembly. All that you'll need is the roller assembly.
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That is true bigfuse, I was sorta copying what babbits calls it (tensioner, sliding). It looks much more efficient than the stock one. I like it
 
The IQR bolt is much longer. I ordered it just in case, but you don't need it.
 
racerdave, funny post. LOL is probably used too often, But it did make me laugh.
 
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