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Clutching and gearing

Brock said:
You can clutch a 1.61 ratio all you want. There's to many things fighting it in my opinion.
The light weights you have to use.
A 27 degree straight primary that up shifts to quick.
Shallow secondary helix that must be used.
Heavy primary and secondary springs for up shift and back shift to compensate
The polaris belt that's inconsistent compound that polaris knows about.
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Ya I tried to explain what I learned from you guys but his head is like a anvil. After our first ride he will put in the 40 gear and 70 chain I picked up for him. BUT, he wants to try springs like others wish to do. I need a recommendation for the secondary. I put a 155/222 in but I don't know if that's right.
 
PoPo said:
Ya I tried to explain what I learned from you guys but his head is like a anvil. After our first ride he will put in the 40 gear and 70 chain I picked up for him. BUT, he wants to try springs like others wish to do. I need a recommendation for the secondary. I put a 155/222 in but I don't know if that's right.
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The only remedy for that is to do what you're planning to do and kick his butt. That may open his eyes then.
 
PoPo said:
LOL, that's for sure. Is the 155/222 too stiff???
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What's your total set up??
Weight?
Elevation?

Sorry, just to lazy to look back. And I'm a little hung over from my b day party last night, lol Barefoot
 
Brock said:
What's your total set up??
Weight?
Elevation?

Sorry, just to lazy to look back. And I'm a little hung over from my b day party last night, lol Barefoot
Click to expand...
Its a stock 15 s shorty, we put a 120/310 in it and I had a 155/222 but im not sure how to tune a secondary. We ride in maine so low elevation and he weights 200
 
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PoPo said:
Its a stock 15 s shorty, we put a 120/310 in it and I had a 155/222 but im not sure how to tune a secondary. We ride in maine so low elevation and he weights 200
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The stock secondary helix is too shallow. You might want to try a 66/44-.44 helix. I'm not too sure on the spring tho. The 155-222 works well but you may want to try a 140-220 spring. Wait til Brock's over his hangover and I'm sure he'll chime in. :D
 
Bigfuse said:
The stock secondary helix is too shallow. You might want to try a 66/44-.44 helix. I'm not too sure on the spring tho. The 155-222 works well but you may want to try a 140-220 spring. Wait til Brock's over his hangover and I'm sure he'll chime in. :D
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lol, ya I was waiting. He wont buy a helix, he's a believer of just doing springs. I have the gear and chain for him and after our first ride he will go 1.74, as long as it runs like everyone is saying. I didn't know with a stock helix if the 155/222 was too much. We already put it in but can switch to the 140/220 if I need to. This stuff is all new to me and in time I will figure it out. We will bring tools to switch when we go as well. Only problem is mother nature, we are due for 60 again by end of week.
 
Hahaha bigfuse

Set your alignment

Set your belt to sheave with new belt no greater then 0.020"

Good idea to get clutches balanced

Popo, I see your weight and elevation now.

Try your adjustable weights at 70 to 71 grams,all heel weight you can do plus tip.
140/300
A 48/44 or 50/44 full progressive with a 140/220 like fuse said.
Gear it or none of this will work.

For all you guys wondering. I had a milestone b day and it was a 300 person bash with a band. So ya, I celebrated a little and man am I paying for it. Lol
 
Adding more spring to the stock rear helix is just going to slow the upshift and most likely turn more rpm. So if your adding a spring to the front too without weight , it's going to rev higher and run out of powrr
 
Brock said:
Hahaha bigfuse

Set your alignment

Set your belt to sheave with new belt no greater then 0.020"

Good idea to get clutches balanced

Popo, I see your weight and elevation now.

Try your adjustable weights at 70 to 71 grams,all heel weight you can do plus tip.
140/300
A 48/44 or 50/44 full progressive with a 140/220 like fuse said.
Gear it or none of this will work.
Click to expand...
I did a 120/310 and with a 50/44 I did a 140/200, unfortunately I cant change belt to sheave, cutler adjustable weights, gates belt and 1.74 gearing. NOW on my buddies sled, same thing 15 s rush, he wants to keep 1.61 to compare. I put in a 120/310 (stock pro r) and a 155/222 in the back. I would like to know if that is ok??? Is the 155/222 gonna work (rest is stock, only changed 2 springs)
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
Adding more spring to the stock rear helix is just going to slow the upshift and most likely turn more rpm. So if your adding a spring to the front too without weight , it's going to rev higher and run out of powrr
Click to expand...
Ok thanks, that is what im trying to find out, read my last post and let me know your thoughts
 
I named a few simple things,like alignment,belt to sheave ,etc....

Has anyone did a marker test on primary for at least 1200' ??
 
I did s
Brock said:
I named a few simple things,like alignment,belt to sheave ,etc....

Has anyone did a marker test on primary for at least 1200' ??
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I did several times last year, All stock with studs and with 120/310 primary. Allways wiped it off. 1/4 mile runs at least.
 
Just putting this out there for info: if you are using the black marker to see how far your pushing ur belt to the top, you have to : gradually decelerate from your wot run: because chopping the throttle will cause the belt to wip and when it does this it cleans ur black mark off and you think ur getting full shift or close to it. Make sence.
 
If I was to put the ssi pipe what would I have to change in my clutch to be able to use all the power? More weight or a helix change or maybe both?
 
Any ideas Doc. I'm geared 1.74 and I weight 270 at sea level. More finish angle on the helix with that added power?
 
Fast aggressive trail riding and drag racing. Merry Christmas to everyone! To bad there is not a lot of snow.
 
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