• We have updated the site to the latest version. You will be required to log in to make sure your account is active. There are quite a few new functions so it will take a little time to get use to it. Please post if you see or have any issues.

Clutching and gearing

. From a dead stop you should be out accelerating the stock geared sled if you have traction.remember here guys there are two ways to load the motor one is chain case and the other is clutches. There needs to be a balance between the two, taking some from the chain case , you will need to add load to make your clutches work harder. .


In the yellow.

You're 100% correct doc.

If you guys think properly set up 1.61 ratio sled is going to beat a properly set up 1.74 ratio sled from a dead stop to 660' ,800' , or even a1000'.??? Sorry but that's wrong, timing systems don't lie.

If that was the case. Then all the pro grass draggers would use a 1.61 ratio and be done. No need to change gearing???


Way to many things going on,suspension,belt, belt slippage,belt getting sucked down in secondary due to improper weights/spring tension, traction, etc.....
 
Ok sorry for lack of info, ran out of time last night.
Pete's sled(mine) 1.74 gearing, 120/310 with tm cutler weights at 66gr, 50/44F with 140/200 and gates belt. Had 1g added to weights but couldn't get revs so removed 1g and rev to 8250, 8300. (96 gold diggers) Seems to run strong, pulls good and back shifts and pulls good again :).
Vic's sled(my buddy) identical sleds. All stock, 27 gold diggers. We put a 120/310 and a 155/222 and a gates belt. I seen a little black on the primary outer ring area and after reading flasch's post he may be right. We did notice secondary heat. We didn't change weights and it could be slipping and heating belt.
Marked both primary's, mine wore the hole mark off. His left 1/4-3/8.
We both need to do alignment.

Fom dead stop I do beat him out but traction im sure does help. Then mine pulled 3-4 sled lengths up to 98 and we let off. We only did that once.
From rolling at 15 or so if he got the better line he would walk a little on me, if I got the better line I would get him. No one better than the other. Pretty even. Obviously not the best to test but we don't race we just ride like hell.

I changed my gearing as you guys suggested. He wanted only to do springs. It actually was good as it gave us on the trail testing for us trail riders. I believe the 1.74 gear is more efficient.

Fuel stops where inconsistent, one time in 50 miles I took .4 gal less, other times within one tenth.

We will continue changing parts and testing (if maine gets more snow)
 
Those TM cutlers are aggressive upshifting weights, you might consider the 155/222 spring. I think slowing the secondary a touch will help you in two ways, one ur rpm will come up which will allow you to add tip weight and two the jack shaft speed will slow a bit not allowing for a quick upshift , may be loading to fast even though the Rpms are close.
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
Those TM cutlers are aggressive upshifting weights, you might consider the 155/222 spring. I think slowing the secondary a touch will help you in two ways, one ur rpm will come up which will allow you to add tip weight and two the jack shaft speed will slow a bit not allowing for a quick upshift , may be loading to fast even though the Rpms are close.
Click to expand...
Ok doc, I have one of them, will try it thanks. On the other does it sound like he needs weights for better pinch at top speed?
 
More weight on those the better. Heel and tip. 71-72 grams.
 
PoPo said:
Ok sorry for lack of info, ran out of time last night.
Pete's sled(mine) 1.74 gearing, 120/310 with tm cutler weights at 66gr, 50/44F with 140/200 and gates belt. Had 1g added to weights but couldn't get revs so removed 1g and rev to 8250, 8300. (96 gold diggers) Seems to run strong, pulls good and back shifts and pulls good again :).
Vic's sled(my buddy) identical sleds. All stock, 27 gold diggers. We put a 120/310 and a 155/222 and a gates belt. I seen a little black on the primary outer ring area and after reading flasch's post he may be right. We did notice secondary heat. We didn't change weights and it could be slipping and heating belt.
Marked both primary's, mine wore the hole mark off. His left 1/4-3/8.
We both need to do alignment.

Fom dead stop I do beat him out but traction im sure does help. Then mine pulled 3-4 sled lengths up to 98 and we let off. We only did that once.
From rolling at 15 or so if he got the better line he would walk a little on me, if I got the better line I would get him. No one better than the other. Pretty even. Obviously not the best to test but we don't race we just ride like hell.

I changed my gearing as you guys suggested. He wanted only to do springs. It actually was good as it gave us on the trail testing for us trail riders. I believe the 1.74 gear is more efficient.

Fuel stops where inconsistent, one time in 50 miles I took .4 gal less, other times within one tenth.

We will continue changing parts and testing (if maine gets more snow)
Click to expand...
Id check alignment and float first, before making more changes. But thats me. Was the 27 Gold Diggers a misprint? Who does 27? Id think youd get pull outs with that amount on a high hp sled? Ive seen that on a doo, but not sure if it was quality of studs. No name brand junk.
 
AxysProS8 said:
Id check alignment and float first, before making more changes. But thats me. Was the 27 Gold Diggers a misprint? Who does 27? Id think youd get pull outs with that amount on a high hp sled? Ive seen that on a doo, but not sure if it was quality of studs. No name brand junk.
Click to expand...
Depending where u are in Ct, i have a alignment bar if u need to use one
 
AxysProS8 said:
Id check alignment and float first, before making more changes. But thats me. Was the 27 Gold Diggers a misprint? Who does 27? Id think youd get pull outs with that amount on a high hp sled? Ive seen that on a doo, but not sure if it was quality of studs. No name brand junk.
Click to expand...
Yes I want to check float on both sleds. I think flasch is right, my buddy heard what he thought was slipping. There is a little black on the clutch also, may be belt slipping.???
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
Which cutler adjustable a do you have the IT or the TM? And how are they loaded up? Flasch has s good point, primary could also be slipping heating the belt and transfering heat to the secondary,
Click to expand...
doc the cutler tm are on my sled which is geared to 1.74. The other sled which is the one with heat we only did springs, stock weights. I'm gonna try 155/222 like you suggested. I do have a lot of jackshaft speed as my sled spins more than it should.
 
I saw somebody say to add 2 grams for gates belt. Never heard of this? Is it necessary. Was just going to run it the way it is stock or will that not work?
 
Went out today for an awesome ride! Trails are finally getting good up here in northern Maine!! Anyway my sled is at 219 miles and I'm geared 1.74 with 50-44f and 68 gram EPI weights. Primary spring is 120-310 and secondary is 140-220. Still not getting full shift on primary. Down about 1/4 inch. So is it because I'm still in break in?
 
Nortrider said:
Went out today for an awesome ride! Trails are finally getting good up here in northern Maine!! Anyway my sled is at 219 miles and I'm geared 1.74 with 50-44f and 68 gram EPI weights. Primary spring is 120-310 and secondary is 140-220. Still not getting full shift on primary. Down about 1/4 inch. So is it because I'm still in break in?
Click to expand...

What are your RPM's at on top? One thing I noticed from your description above is the 68g weights. I'd add more weight.....maybe 70g-72g.
 
Considering you're still in break-in mode, the motor will stretch some more and the RPM's will increase once full power is achieved. By adding some weight, you'll bring those rev's down some. I can't speak for the EPI's and their profile, but have you tried a heavier weight like Polaris 10-70's to see if that would make a possible difference?
 
Not I haven't tried the Polaris weights. I have the epi 70s here I'll throw those is and try it
 
Also, very important that the belt to sheave clearance is tight (.010"-.020") and your belt deflection is within spec. Personally, mine is at .018" running a Gates belt and deflection at 1.25".
 
You do what you want but that motor is still tight and I don't believe in twisting them too much when they are tight. I have the same set up except I have cutler tm weights and a 140/200 and 1000 miles and it runs to the top of the primary. Cutlers act 5g heavier and I'm at 66 turning 8250-8300. As it breaks in it will improve.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom