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Where to start on MY clutching

Thx guys. Picking up my IQ roller tomorrow and will be installing gear change. Only problem is its been in the 60's. Cant wait to try this.
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
There is a lot of performance to be had in the secondary too, just give a yell if you want to go faster..
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Yes I want to go faster so any suggestions will help ... Sure !!! ...so with a white primary spring ,around 70 grams weights ,1.68 ratio ,Cobra 1.352 96 studs gold diggers 1.325 and myself on the seat (200 after holidays !)...thanks !
 
A little tip .
Get your clutches aligned properly.

Get belt to sheave clearance set no greater then 0.020" on new belt

Set the secondary float for 0.060" to 0.120" float.
Keep clutch sheave faces clean with purple scotch brite pads ,and wipe clean with acetone after. Clean sides of belt in warm soapy water with abrasive pad and rinse . I do this regularly. Can be done every 500 miles..

This is rare, but check motor mounts . Good way to check is take belt off. Grab the primary with both hands and pull towards secondary hard. Also pull up. If there's any slight movement in motor you will notice by doing this.

These should be done before any mods.
 
So after you do all that Brock suggested: helixes that I have used with the stock sec. Spring are: 58-44.46 this is better then stock by .100 ths this little bit makes a difference , 48-44 full progressive same spring. And a 50-44 full with 140-200 spring, I have tried these all and know they work, I like the fulls best. All with stock belt, gates dident come out yet, so there could be some tweeking, if so Go back to the front clutch and add weight or back off on the spring more on the bid end.
 
AxysProS8 said:
Honestly i like the 1.6 for trail. I give all the doos i ride with a good run. In the wide open trails ive yet to be passed in a straight away. Just feel the backshift going slow thru a 1lane trail doing 20-30 is slow to respond when i blip throttle. I feel i should be able to wack throttle for a sec and it hook up, not hook up as im letting off throttle. So i dont think gearing has anything to do with that
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Howdy.
After reading this thread to date, I believe lowering the initial on your helix would be the simplest way to achieve what you are trying to accomplish with the 1.60 gearing intact. If you are happy with mid range and top end performance, then leave the finish on the helix as is. Weights, with springs and a washer will affect the performance but IMHO are not going to move you in the direction you want to go.......

Rufus
 
I don't agree, the helix that is in this sled is very shallow already . Shall owing up the angles would help but I don't feel that's his issue. First thing I would do is ck the rear spring tension, and make sure the secondary moves freely, not binding on Any way. IMO
 
Rufus Hannassey said:
Howdy.
After reading this thread to date, I believe lowering the initial on your helix would be the simplest way to achieve what you are trying to accomplish with the 1.60 gearing intact. If you are happy with mid range and top end performance, then leave the finish on the helix as is. Weights, with springs and a washer will affect the performance but IMHO are not going to move you in the direction you want to go.......

Rufus
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Ok thanks, ill look into this
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
I don't agree, the helix that is in this sled is very shallow already . Shall owing up the angles would help but I don't feel that's his issue. First thing I would do is ck the rear spring tension, and make sure the secondary moves freely, not binding on Any way. IMO
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Ill be checking this stuff out this weekend, checked belt to sheeve with 2k mile belt and it was snug fitting in a 18thousands feeler gauge. 16k fit a lil loose so its in between 16 thousands and 18. Im gonna check the new Poo belt i have this weekend also. I think a Gates belt might be to tight for the clearance i have? Ill know better when i check the new Poo belt
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
I don't agree, the helix that is in this sled is very shallow already . Shall owing up the angles would help but I don't feel that's his issue. First thing I would do is ck the rear spring tension, and make sure the secondary moves freely, not binding on Any way. IMO
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No prob. To each, his own.
But let's recap his wish list.
Doesn't care about drag racing.
Is happy with his mid range and top end.
Wants to keep the 1.6 gearing.
Wants more snap in the 20 mph range with good backshift.
I agree the 58 is already on the shallow side, especially for guys that are gearing down.......BUT, he's keeping the 1.6 which is where I was coming from. Plus a helix swap is the easiest clutch mod there is. LOL

Cheers Boyz!
 
I'm not saying ur wrong at all the start angle dropping would fix his complaint. But he shouldn't have to change his Helix , it's very conservative right now . There are thousands of axys es out there , I can't believe having to drop the start angle more. Something else may be going on here. IMO
 
I'm confused???? You are suggesting starting angle of 50 and 48 in a progressive helix which is far less than 58 in a .36 helix????
 
HSR said:
I'm confused???? You are suggesting starting angle of 50 and 48 in a progressive helix which is far less than 58 in a .36 helix????
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you have to remember the 58 is only .36 long .
 
IM SAYING THE STOCK HELIX SHOUD BE BACK SHIFTING FINE.. BOTH FULLS WILL OUT LOAD THE STOCK HELIX HANDS DOWN. YES THE 58 IS A TOUCH STEAPER AT FIRST BUT IT FALLS OFF VERY FAST. THATS WHY THE STOCK HELIX HAS MINIMAL MIDRANGE PULL.
 
Where u guys buying Delrin washers, and who has 10-70 weights? My dealer said 10-70s were on back order till mid January
 
Rufus Hannassey said:
No prob. To each, his own.
But let's recap his wish list.
Doesn't care about drag racing.
Is happy with his mid range and top end.
Wants to keep the 1.6 gearing.
Wants more snap in the 20 mph range with good backshift.
I agree the 58 is already on the shallow side, especially for guys that are gearing down.......BUT, he's keeping the 1.6 which is where I was coming from. Plus a helix swap is the easiest clutch mod there is. LOL

Cheers Boyz!
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I like your style Rufus O O


I'll add something more that hopefully doesn't confuse. The initial angle should be at least 21 points higher then the finish angle to work properly as a compound helix. So let's say 44 is your finish angle, add 21 points to this, that's 65. This is why the stock 58/44.36 sucks as a compound helix. It's to shallow for a very short duration start to compliment the finish angle. It's ok if it's a full progressive.

Just something else to throw into the mix
 
HaHa Brock. For the record, this guy's potential setup is the polar opposite of how I setup my own sleds. I usually trail ride in full drag race mode. LOL Always be prepared!

You need to remind Polaris about the spread on the angles. They almost always stay under 20. Sometimes I think they set these sleds up for the rental companies.

One other thing I'LL throw into the mix. To the guys who are both gearing down AND initialing down.......you'd better have your launch/traction figured out.

Rufus
 
Agreed Rufus.

I don't know what Polaris was thinking about clutching and gearing these things from factory????

For one gearing is way to tall(1.61)

Now add polaris changed the primary sheave angle to up shift quicker(straight 27 degree)

So a tall gear ratio with a primary that up shifts quicker ???

Add the inconsistent belt compound that polaris knows about

And the 58/44.36 helix??

I just can't believe this set up from factory???

So you have a 1.61 ratio, with a primary sheave face that up shifts to quick that it lugs and to compensate, they put in a 58/44.36.

Awesome!!!!

I guess this tested really well on the factory track dyno simulation at Polaris???
 
Can someone help clarify the EXACT model/ordering number Team 50/44 helix in need? I am confused on Team clutch type(s); Whether the particular 50/44 is for engine reverse--or not; and the 50/44 numbers--seem there is a several sets of numbers talked about when I search "Team 50/44 helix". Thanks.
 
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ttraynor said:
Can someone help clarify the EXACT model/ordering number Team 50/44 helix in need? I am confused on Team clutch type(s); Whether the auricular 50/44 is for reverse--or not; and the 50/44 numbers--seem there is a several sets of numbers talked about when I search "Team 50/44 helix". Thanks.
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Apparently you can't get them from Team anymore. You have to get the helix from Venom and apparently they're just as brutal to get custom cut helixes from also. Your best bet is Straightline Performance. Give them a go.
 
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