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Clutching and gearing

No, I can't. Maybe you Canadians have me blocked! LOL:Ban
Come on guys, I want to see them too!
(Jeez, was it something I said?):(
 
Lid said:
don't forget to remove two screws holding the body work up from the bottom they are small torx if I remember correctly. Then pull body work down and out as you pull cover off swing bottom forward and it pops right off. Easy. No problem. But be advised make sure you have the Allen seated all the way down in th case fill plug mine had some slag in it an was ungodly tight. I had a real hard time getting it out you may or may not have this problem as my buddies came right out no problem. All in all it's not a hard job at all.
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Thanks for the heads up. I thought I read something about them 2 torx.
 
sixpack said:
Hmm.......this gearing thing has me torn. I tried numerous different ratios in my PROR 800 switch......1.86, 1.74. 1.69, and finally back to 1.64. Ran each ratio against a test mule (our other 2012 PROR 800 switch geared stock). I thought I would hand him his ass. What happened was I'd get him out of the hole by about a sled length, then at 40-50 MPH he came on me hard and put on 4-5 lengths and I couldn't catch him. We raced in about 4 inches of snow on a stubble field. Checked his max recall and it said 98 MPH.

Went down to 1.74 ratio and tried him again. Similar results, but stayed with him a little longer. Long story short.....until I geared back up 1.64.......I couldn't touch him. Last race we had in same field our max recalls were both 96-98 MPH.

Perhaps it was due to spinning?....don't know.

Talked to SLP as well and asked them why they don't gear the ProS axys with their pipe setup?......this was their answer.

".....The S and the R do have different gearing which was intended since there is variables between the two chassis and suspension combinations.
The stock clutch and belt width will not mechanically achieve full sheave travel so at best there will be 1/4” to 3/8” that will not clean on the top of the sheave. The stock gearing is not too high in the sense that it will get there in “perfect” conditions. It does however provide better rpm to track speed relationship when cruising.

When adding the extra power of the SLP pipe kit on either sled it will use the gearing more efficiently. With the pipe kit I would use the stock gearing and never gear lower unless you are going to do short drag races.

Gearing down will give you better low to mid but usually will get softer on top end (conditions will vary with snow load). In heavier snow the lower gears will usually pull more top but the same gears on hard pack will not run as fast as higher ratio........"

Not trying to contradict your advice, Brock. Just found it odd.

Our new 2015 PRO S 800 Axys with the 1.6 Cobra track, I geared it down to 1.68. Did not want to venture any lower because of my past results with our 2012 PROR 800 switch's.

Interesting to see how the Axys 800 will run against our PROR's.....
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I have gone through everything as well and in the end I actually geared the other way a tooth and it hauls mail! On paper bricks numbers work but not in the conditions in have run.
 
This where it gets nuts for us non-tinkerer/non-"experts": I geared down this fall to 1.74 on my SB because "everybody" said so. Then you get conflicting reports. Oh well. I also added a Ripsaw 1.5"--replacing my Ripsaw 1.25"--so I am probably still headed in the right direction.

I appreciate all the info--just gearing/clutching of sleds is dependent on so many factors and I don't have the time or aptitude to dial-in. Someday I'll find a local Polaris guru (West Michigan) to hand the sled off to and say: "Make it run faster!".
 
in2deepxp said:
I have gone through everything as well and in the end I actually geared the other way a tooth and it hauls mail! On paper bricks numbers work but not in the conditions in have run.
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That's weird as when I geared mine down to 1.74 and clutched it for that gearing a stack 800 AXYS with a lighter rider couldn't get near me. Dunno
 
Bigfuse said:
That's weird as when I geared mine down to 1.74 and clutched it for that gearing a stack 800 AXYS with a lighter rider couldn't get near me. Dunno
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I have everything but the weights. I did order the 50/44 helix from venom. I'm still up in the air with the weights, rooster, Dalton??? I was looking at Polaris adjustables also.
 
PoPo said:
I have everything but the weights. I did order the 50/44 helix from venom. I'm still up in the air with the weights, rooster, Dalton??? I was looking at Polaris adjustables also.
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Polaris does not make adjustable weights
 
PoPo said:
I have everything but the weights. I did order the 50/44 helix from venom. I'm still up in the air with the weights, rooster, Dalton??? I was looking at Polaris adjustables also.
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Your right, my bad, they are cutler performance
 
The more you gear down, the better your traction has to be. Also gearing down takes load away from the clutches, there for you need to make ur clutches shift open faster to load the motor
 
There are two ways to load the motor, chain case and threw the clutches. You need to find good balance. If you change the gear , you are changing the load, therefore you need to reload the clutches to makeup for the change to keep a good balance. You have to load the motor, otherwise is just going to rev and make noise
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
There are two ways to load the motor, chain case and threw the clutches. You need to find good balance. If you change the gear , you are changing the load, therefore you need to reload the clutches to makeup for the change to keep a good balance. You have to load the motor, otherwise is just going to rev and make noise
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I havnt installed yet but I bought the 40t % 70p chain, 120/310 prim, 50/44 helix with 140/200 spring. I have roosters ordered for weights but not sure if that's a good choice. I have a 15 rush s Has anyone used the carlton adjustables??
 
OutCast said:
Go with the Daltons. They work real well and are the easiest to adjust trail side.
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Thanks outcast, I wasn't sure what to do with the weights. By the way have you ever seen or heard of cutler?? They are the same as Dalton for $180 instead of $220
 
They say the Cutlers are the same profile as the OEM weights. The Daltons are a slightly more aggressive profile than OEM
Either weight will be a good choice for the average tuner.
 
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